Timeline for Burning Arduinos one after another
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
20 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| Aug 1, 2017 at 12:56 | comment | added | Majenko | Besides, China make all of my PCBs... | |
| Aug 1, 2017 at 12:56 | comment | added | Majenko | Sure - a lot of them are coming out of Malaysia and Vietnam now anyway. | |
| Aug 1, 2017 at 12:55 | history | edited | Majenko | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Aug 1, 2017 at 12:01 | comment | added | Nick Gammon♦ | Your comment that you would rather buy Chinese than Italian is racist itself. @Majenko - it might be better to say "cheap clones" rather than insult a particular country. | |
| Aug 1, 2017 at 11:46 | comment | added | pipe | No need to be so racist. I'd rather buy Chinese electronics than Italian electronics - The Chinese knows what they are doing and have a huge industry. | |
| Aug 1, 2017 at 11:37 | comment | added | Jules | @Majenko I've been using clones with CH340G chips for years, am not particularly careful with them, and have never had a related failure. I see several suggestions online that their internal power management is flaky and that they should therefore be used with an external regulator, but checking the clone boards I have that seems to be the way it has been done. As to the PTC, I'm not sure how to test it, but there definitely is a component labelled as one on the boards I have. All in all, I've had nothing but good experiences with clone Arduinos, so I'm really not sure what the issue is. | |
| Aug 1, 2017 at 9:32 | history | edited | Majenko | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Aug 1, 2017 at 6:48 | comment | added | Clonkex | I disagree with buying a genuine one. I mean sure if you've got the money, go for it, but unless your goal is to support Arduino, just go to eBay and buy a Chinese-made Arduino. I get mine from eBay. The trick is to find the good ones. Start by limiting the search to your local country and setting Price Low > High. Find the ones with the DIP socket chip as they're usually better-made (not sure why), then find the cheapest one from a reputable seller (I'm in Australia, so I look for sellers that use solid English and take their own photos - my favourite seller is LearCNC, for instance). | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 22:35 | comment | added | hobbs | This would be a better answer in the opposite order. Someone who isn't following the basic rules can, and often will, fry a board within 30 seconds of taking it out of the box, no matter how "genuine" it is. There aren't all that many protections in the design — and speaking of regulators, aren't they still using those little SOT-223 ones that get blistering hot when you draw rated current at rated input voltage? There are also clones out there that have noticeably better builds. | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 21:06 | comment | added | Majenko | @AleksandurMurfitt The USB cable on it probably has so little metal in the power wires it acts like a resistor limiting the current and protecting everything ;) | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 21:05 | comment | added | DividedByZero | This is generally good advice, but keep in mind, there are exceptions. My first Arduino was a Chinese clone (cost about £3 and came with a USB cable too) but it has managed to outlive two genuine ones, even though I usually try risky things on it first. | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 18:43 | comment | added | Majenko | @MattiVirkkunen The genuine Uno has a decent PTC on it. One has to question the quality (and thus efficacy) of the PTC (if there even is one) on a Chinese clone. Also you only have to cough in the same room as it and the CH340G dies. All adds up to far more fragility than a genuine one - and none of it is to do with the MCU. | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 18:40 | comment | added | Matti Virkkunen | I don't think even a supposedly superior "genuine" board would have protection on the I/O pins for instance, at least any of the popular standard ones. At most, they might be using a regulator that has better overcurrent protection. And it shouldn't be too hard to put a better regulator on a cheap Chinese board, and save a lot of money by avoiding boards where the price is 20% substance and 80% brand image. | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 16:59 | comment | added | Majenko | Ruggeduino is OTT protected (ruggedized) for industrial applications. | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 16:47 | comment | added | Edenia | Aren't there a little more expensive (say 10$) ones that are more secure. One mentioned Ruggeduino | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 16:38 | comment | added | Michel Keijzers | Actually I do, at least for now, until I'm getting more confidence in my electronics knowledge ... of course I try to be regularly safe. But it's always a trade off - buying a decent product which breaks less often or a 'cheap one' which breaks easily. | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 15:39 | comment | added | Majenko | That is fine if you are going to treat them as a disposable item. Use it a few times and throw it away. Personally I have two Uno R2 boards that I have had for many years and treated them like crud. They will work well. | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 15:36 | comment | added | Michel Keijzers | I agree, although I think also for learning it might be better to use cheaper ones than burning real ones (although they have more protection). So far I burnt one and that was a genuine one (after putting it in a case and used a 12V adapter). | |
| Jul 31, 2017 at 15:34 | vote | accept | Edenia | ||
| Jul 31, 2017 at 15:14 | history | answered | Majenko | CC BY-SA 3.0 |