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    Also, if you can place the tapered edges on the joist lines, they will be less prone to break than a cut edge. Also, some installers have butt joints ending between studs held together by a backer board such as Rock Splicer, which is wide enough to avoid breaking board edge. Commented Jun 20, 2013 at 12:39
  • The furring strips are a good idea. Seems like a bit of work and money but if it works I would be willing to do it. Commented Jun 20, 2013 at 14:50
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    THe strips can be 'tuned" with shims and a laser to adjust for uneven joists, giving you a much flatter ceiling. Once the shims are coplanar, the drywall can be screwed down without adhesive. Adhesive allows for bridging. (you don't want to screw down a low spot, you either bend the board or punch the screw through, netting no holding power). Commented Jun 20, 2013 at 18:47
  • How do you deal with pot lights when you have the furring strips? Commented Jul 29, 2013 at 16:45
  • You just attach them to the strips instead of the joists. Commented Jul 30, 2013 at 1:08