On The Piste With L-Plates
You want to take the family skiing. But you're all novices. Then you should head for this quiet resort in the Pyrenees, says Fiona MacLeod
Published: 28 January 2007
'So why Spain?" That was the question most of my friends asked when I told them we were off on a family ski holiday to the little resort of Cerler in the Spanish Pyrenees. I hadn't realised it wasn't the obvious choice of destination for such a trip, but then I'm not a seasoned skier - my experience was limited to a couple of weeks in my teens and my two sons had each had just a week on the slopes. Yet this boded well; being mown down by hordes of snowboarders or cut up by speed merchants was something we wanted to avoid.
Finding a ski break during the school holidays at a destination that isn't heaving with people may seem a tall order. But Pura Aventura's family ski holiday, now in its second year, promised quiet slopes and few queues at the resort, the highest in the Spanish Pyrenees.
Pura specialises in "active holidays in comfort". I had travelled with the company before and had been impressed by its expertise at guiding small groups in lesser-known areas and introducing them to the best of local culture. Diego Martin and Jaime Lahoz, both directors of the company and our guides and ski instructors for the week, took care of our party (which had expanded into a mob of nine adults and eight children under 12) and made sure we had little to worry about except enjoying ourselves.
Jaime is a highly qualified ski and snowboard instructor who combines his work for Pura with a career as a winter sports photographer. Diego had travelled from his home in the Picos de Europa, where he usually guides walking parties, to help with our large group. Usually, guides look after groups of up to eight people, also providing skiing lessons. The standard of teaching we received from Jaime and Diego was excellent and it was fun learning alongside people we knew rather than being in ski school with strangers.
Cerler proved to be an efficient little resort. As promised, the slopes weren't crowded, particularly midweek, and there were no queues for the fast and sophisticated network of lifts. Another huge plus was the fact that you could leave your equipment in the ski hire shop, right next to the lifts, rather than lugging it back to your hotel in your ski-boots. Prices were also very reasonable, so extras such as drinks and snacks didn't break the bank.
Cerler is set in Aragon's Benasque valley, known as the "hidden valley" because there is no direct access from France. Until very recently its economy depended on agriculture. Consequently, its skiing facilities are relatively new, having only been developed during the past 30 years.
Walk along its tiny stone-flagged alleys between the centuries-old houses, and you soon realise how little this place has been affected by tourism. The lack of access means that most visitors are Spanish and quite local at that, driving just a few hours to get here for the weekend or a short break.
We stayed at the Hotel Casa Cornel, a few minutes walk from the bottom of the slopes. It is run by three members of the Cornel family, whose ancestors have lived in the building since the 12th century, and was converted from its status as a farm only five years ago. It is difficult to believe that a large part of this elegant establishment, with its sleek polished wooden floors, was an animal byre until so recently. Its 15 bedrooms, with chic stone-finished bathrooms, are large, stylishly furnished and several have balconies with fantastic views of the pistes.
We ate well in the hotel restaurant, though we also ventured out to try some of the other places in the village. Our particular favourite was La Borda del Mastin, a converted stone barn where they barbecue a fine selection of game over an open fire. But Cerler is not the place to go if you are looking for après-ski activities and nightlife.
Cerler best suits beginners and intermediates, more experienced skiers might find the 32 miles of piste a bit limited. But for our party of novices, it was a success. Parting from Diego and Jaime at the end of the week felt like leaving old friends. They had not only taught us to ski but had shown us a glimpse of a little-known part of Spain.
THE COMPACT GUIDE
HOW TO GET THERE:
Pura Aventura (0845 2255058; pura-aventura.com) offers the Family Ski Holiday as a seven-day package from £839 per adult and £669 per child. The price includes transfers from Zaragoza or Reus airports, b&b with four dinners, equipment hire, lift passes and ski lessons. Flights cost extra but can be arranged through Pura.
