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Mojitos with Cuban rum

8 08 2008

Well, it’s les vacances, and I’ve been secretly posting all week from Sofia, Bulgaria.  (Actually, I wrote it all on Monday, and set it up to post throughout the week.  How cool is that?)  Nick’s had this guest post brewing for a little while now, and what better time to post about Mojitos than the hottest month of the year?  So sit back, relax, and enjoy the dulcet tones of Nick’s prose.

There’s an herb guy at the Joinville market (Thursdays & Sundays, bring your elbows and wear closed-toed shoes). We’re sure he has a proper name, but we call him “the herb guy.” He runs his stand on a corner and is often only barely visible behind green mountains of fresh parsley, cilantro, and mint. On a recent (and finally sunny) trip to the market the waft of mint was irresistible. We had cilantro, rosemary, and parsley on the shopping list, so we decided to pick up some mint to go along for the ride. Two bunches in fact. Why the splurge? Because it looked fresh, smelled great, and the things are thirty cents a bunch. Treat yourself, right?

Herb Guy

The other motivation for the mint was that I’ve had my eye some Cuban rum lately. This is one of those items you can find in France that you can’t find in the US. Cigars, too, but this is a food blog and I’ll stay on subject.

Rum comes from the Caribbean, and as an outsider it is interesting to note the origins of the rum imported into France. I will admit that, in general, rum is not high on my list of libations. However, in The States most rum I know of comes from Puerto Rico. In France one can find rum from the DOM-TOM’s Martinique and Guadeloupe as well as from Cuba. In other words, each country imports their rum from their respective Caribbean territories/departments, and then Cuba in the absence of any long-standing embargoes. As well, there are three to four different brands of Cuban rum at a given grocery store. So, political ramifications notwithstanding, we grabbed a mid-priced bottle of forbidden-fruit Havana Club añejo 3 años Cuban rum.

Havana Club Rum

The rum itself was very good. The flavor was simply that of distilled, fermented sugar cane juice. A slightly warm punch at the beginning, certainly mellowed over those 3 años, with a residual sweetness you can only get from pure cane sugar. Really nice with a cube of ice,  but it begs to be turned into a cocktail.

 mojito components

My food recipes are usually less than precise, and my drink recipes are even less exacting. So here goes: I took a chilled glass, added some sugar and juiced half a lime on top. I picked a bunch of mint leaves and put them on top of the sugar and lime juice, and muddled that with the back end of a wooden spoon (my muddler is in a box somewhere). I then added my desired amount of rum and a handful of ice, and topped it all of that off with some Perrier (it’s still France, and we’ve yet to find that art deco seltzer bottle at the flea market), stirring gently to maintain the fizz.

mojito

In a word, the Mojito with Cuban rum was great. Like a mint perfumed effervescent adult limeade. An incredibly refreshing treat on a hot day. We each had two.

Originally published on Croque-Camille.





Chicken Pot Pie - Another Classic French Dish

6 08 2008

I know - not very summery.  But tasty and comforting just the same.  And, while it may not seem particularly French, the humble pot pie is based on some very classic French techniques.  First, the sauce.  It’s a traditional velouté, made by thinning blond roux with stock.  Stir, simmer, season, strain if you’re fussy.

Sauce velouté - known in many parts of the world as "gravy."

Next, you’ve got your mirepoix:  Sauté in a little butter, season with salt and pepper, toss with fresh parsley (or thyme or sage).

Classic mirepoix - onions, carrots, and celery

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Courgettes aux Herbes de Provence

5 08 2008

Last week I made good on a dinner invite I had extended to Hails of Coffee Helps.  I decided to revisit the pork roast that had been such a hit a few months back, but couldn’t decide on an appropriate vegetable side dish.  I’ll admit I sometimes feel befuddled in the Summer regarding what to do with the bounty of gorgeous vegetables available at the market.  It’s hard to strike a balance when you want to do something new and interesting but don’t want to mess up the perfection that is a ripe tomato, zucchini, or what-have-you. 

So I thought I’d do a simple summer squash sauté with a little garlic and lemon - nothing to overpower the freshness of the squash or compete with the apricot glaze on the pork.  And then, on my way out of the market, I saw these:

Cute little bundles of fresh Herbes de Provence

Fresh herbes de Provence!  Obviously, I had to buy them.  I just knew they would be fantastic with the zucchini I had picked up earlier, not to mention a lovely counterpoint to the fruity pork glaze.  And naturally, I neglected to take any photos.  (Sorry.)  But rest assured the end result was delicious.

So delicious, in fact, that I made a quiche using the same ingredients later in the week.  Using my usual recipe, with garlicky sautéed zucchini in place of the onions, I seasoned the custard with lemon zest and chopped fresh sage, thyme, lavender, and parsley.

You'll notice I finally got a round baking dish

After the quiche came out of the oven, I realized I had forgotten to put the fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano into the custard as intended.  D’oh!  Nevertheless, grating it directly over the top of the baked quiche isn’t a bad way to go.

Provençal Zucchini Quiche

The quiche was fantastic - the herbs and lemon gave the whole thing a feeling of lightness not usually associated with the buttery, eggy, cheesy goodness that is a typical quiche.  Served with a glass of chilled rosé, it made a refreshing summer supper.  It’s amazing how one simple ingredient (in this case, the fresh herbes de Provence) can inspire you to look at your cooking in a new way.  And who knows what it will be next?  I’ll just have to wait and see what the market has in store for me.

Originally published on Croque-Camille.





La Marquisette

4 08 2008

Yesterday Nick and I ventured all the way over to the 17th arrondissement to visit an artist friend of ours in his apartment/studio.  (It feels like such a cliché to be hanging out with the painter who used to live downstairs from our Parisian apartment, but at the same time, very cool.)  Since we were going to be in an as-yet-unexplored  neighborhood, we decided to have a little wander around and stopped for refreshment at La Marquisette.

La Marquisette

It wasn’t exactly a hot or sunny afternoon, but the promise of caramel au beurre salé (salted butter caramel) gelato was too tempting to pass up.  We each ended up getting a two-flavor cup, Nick’s with caramel and stracciatella, and mine with caramel and Bulgarian yogurt.

Sweet, delicious, handmade gelato

The caramel halves even got an extra drizzle of buttery caramel sauce.  The gelato itself was excellent - creamy with a good sweet-salty balance, deep caramel flavor, and the unmistakable mouthfeel of good handmade caramel sauce.  As for the other flavors, the Bulgarian yogurt was delightfully tangy and made a great foil to the rich caramel nestled up next to it.  The stracciatella (Italian-style chocolate chip made by drizzling melted chocolate into churned ice cream) had a sweet, creamy flavor with minimal vanilla so as not to detract from the quality of the cream and the tasty chocolate bits.  (None of that waxy, stick-in-your-teeth ”chocolatey” garbage here!)

Another point in La Marquisette’s favor: unlike certain other Parisian glaceries who shall remain nameless, they close from November to February, when it makes sense for an ice cream place to be closed.  And they’re open all summer, except Mondays.  Hooray!

Originally published on Croque-Camille.





Quick Summer Pasta

1 08 2008

It’s hot.  To paraphrase David Lebovitz, there are even a handful of French people running around without scarves!  At any rate, it’s not the time to spend all evening over a hot stove.  Given the absence of air conditioning in our apartment (and most of Paris, I assume) you want an absolute minimum of heat generation going on in the kitchen.

I have a go-to dish for these kinds of evenings.  Here’s how it goes: Boil water for pasta.  While you’re waiting, dice some tomatoes or other veggies, crumble some cheese, and search through the fridge or pantry for other pasta-friendly ingredients. 

Tomatoes, olives, goat gouda, and smoked "bacon"

When the pasta is done, drain it and return it to the pot.  Throw in your garnishes, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and drizzle with olive oil.  Stir it up, and voilà!  Dinner is served.  This is good hot or cold, so pack it up and take it outside with a bottle of chilled rosé for an impromptu picnic.

Summer Pasta

I made a variation of this back in the Spring - one of the things I love most about it is that the possible combinations are endless.  Some of my favorite add-ins include quickly sautéed arugula or spinach, garlic, and toasted pine nuts.  But what’s great is that you can just throw in that cool cheese you found at the market, some awesome summer produce, and you’ve got yourself a… (really trying hard not to write “stew”) meal!

Originally published on Croque-Camille.





WWPPD?

28 07 2008

Ok, so I realize that as a pop-cultural reference, “What Would ______ Do?” is hideously outdated.  And yet, over the last several weeks, I have developed a mantra using said trite construction.  “What would Paul Prudhomme do?” is something I ask myself on an almost daily basis. 

This makes a certain amount of sense, as one of the formative moments in my decision to go into the culinary arts professionally involved watching a rerun of some TV show in which he cut up a chicken.  He made it look so easy!  The man has obviously butchered a chicken or two in his day.  So it started with butchering chickens.  But the mantra has made its way into other cooking arenas:

“Should I use black pepper, white pepper, or cayenne?  WWPPD?  All three!”

“Do these mashed potatoes need more butter, salt, or cream?  WWPPD?  YES!”

“What is this tomato sauce missing?  WWPPD?  Sugar!”

And so on.  Luckily, in most cases, this results in the chicken getting butchered faster and more efficiently, the seasoning being aggressive but tasty, and the mouthfeel being, well, unctuous (look it up).  All good things, in my book.

So does anyone else have a cooking mantra?  What is it?  I’d love to hear!





Du Pain et des Idées

25 07 2008

A few weeks ago, at the fête de la cour, one of our neighbors directed us to check out a boulangerie about 5 minutes away.  I finally got around to it last week, and my life will never be the same. 

Du Pain et des Idées is, as the neighbor said, not too far from my apartment (although I pass at least 4 other bakeries on the way there).  The charming storefront is situated at the end of a cute little street just off the Canal St. Martin. 

My new favorite boulangerie

It is owned and run by Christophe Vasseur, a former fashion salesman who, in his forties, decided to scrap it all and learn the art of baking bread.  And I’m glad he did, because he makes some of the best bread in town.  So far I’ve brought home the flute à l’ancienne, a long, thin bread (as the name implies), and the pain des amis, a large, flattish bread sold in hunks of 250 or 500 grams.  Both are superior in flavor to just about any bread I’ve had so far in Paris.  They have gorgeously crispy crusts that make me extremely happy to finally have a proper bread knife.

But neither of these is the reason I’ve been back three times in a week.  No, my new obsession is this:

So many flavors, so little time...

These little rolls are the greatest thing since, well, sliced bread.  Just imagine, fist-sized, fresh baked bread with a host of sweet and savory fillings.  I have taken to stopping by on the way home from work and grabbing one for a late lunch.  So far my favorite is the tomato confit and feta one, but the still-warm spinach and goat cheese wasn’t half bad!  There’s a honey-sesame one I’m dying to try, and there always seems to be something new.  I could probably eat one every day and never get tired of them.  My only question is: Why doesn’t every bakery in Paris… no, France… no, the WORLD, make these?





The Great Duo of Avocado and Shrimp

23 07 2008

It’s time again for the Leftover Queen’s Royal Foodie Joust!  This month the ingredients are Cilantro, Sesame, and Seafood.  For some reason I thought immediately of tahini, the delicious Middle Eastern/Mediterranean sesame paste.  Then I was stumped for a while, because I wasn’t quite sure how to work the cilantro in, or which seafood to choose (it’s a pretty broad category).  But one afternoon, over lunch with Hope, she mentioned that she had been playing around with gazpacho lately, and it struck me as the perfect vehicle.  Somehow avocados came up, and by the time lunch was over I had a recipe jumping around in my brain, just waiting to be made a reality.

We picked up some avocados and cilantro at the market the next day.  I had decided on seared scallops for the seafood quotient, but was unable to find any at the market.  I briefly considered going the crispy-skin seabass route, but an overly long line at the fishmonger on my lunch hour made that decision for me.  Ultimately, I settled on shrimp for their ability to pair awesomely with avocado.

When I finally cut into the avocados, I was pleased to find some of the most gorgeous, buttery-green specimens I’ve seen in France.

I have a painting very similar to this at home, painted by a friend of mine.

The gazpacho was really easy to put together:  I just threw all the ingredients (avocados, cilantro, lime juice, tahini, garlic, fish stock, salt, cayenne) in a bowl, like so:

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And The Award Goes To…

21 07 2008

…Me!

Arte y Pico Award

Last Friday, Hails at Coffee Helps bestowed the Arte y Pico Award upon yours truly.  I feel really honored to be one of her five choices, given the length of this girl’s blogroll!  Seriously, though, hers is one of my favorite blogs.  A very brave soul, she ditched her home and belongings to follow her dream of becoming a travel writer by way of, get this, traveling and writing about it.  Like so many of my favorite dishes, simple yet awesome.  Hails’ stories of survival in foreign lands are often laugh-out-loud funny and always entertaining.  Anyway, in giving the award, she said some very nice things about this blog:

I’m not normally one for reading food/recipe blogs, but I love this one. Camille is an expat pastry chef living in Paris, and her recipes are written in a fun, easy-to-follow style, with a sprinkling of anecdotes about her life in France, and pictures of the finished dishes - which, quite simply, make me want to go and live with her. This blog is classy, fun, and just plain mouthwatering…

Thanks, Hails!

Now, of course, there are rules:

  1. Pick five blogs that you consider deserve the award for their creativity, design, interesting material, and also for contributing to the blogging community, no matter what language.
  2. Each award has to have the name of the author and also a link to his or her blog to be visited by everyone.
  3. Each award winner has to show the award and put the name and link to the blog that has given her or him the award itself.
  4. The award winner and the one who has given the prize have to show the link of the Arte y Pico blog, so everyone will know the origin of this award.

I spent the weekend considering to which blogs I would pass the award along, basing my considerations largely on my currently overflowing Google Reader.  Which are the blogs I go to first, despite having a hundred other posts to read?  Here we go…

First up, Hopie’s Kitchen.  Another American in Paris, Hope is a first-rate home cook and aspiring actress.  She blogs a bit about life in Paris and a lot about recipes from her impressive cookbook collection.  The best part?  She converts all the measurements into metric so I don’t have to.  And she does all this in both French and English!

Next, she eats.  K is adventurous eater from Houston, Texas.  I have spent approximately 20 hours in Houston in my life, but that in no way diminishes my interest in her blog.  From hole-in-the-wall Mexican joints to massive Asian superstores to private fine dining and even some home cooking, she covers it all.  Not to mention food-related news and poems, Tuesday Trivia, and the play-by-play of her Weekend in Food.  I honestly don’t know how she finds time for a day job!

Ensuite, mes petits choux à la crème, a man known only as the Grumpy Chef (aka Le Chef Grincheux) writes a blog called Who Dares Cooks.  His posts are infrequent (understandable, given that he is an actual, working chef) but always make me cheer.  He says what we’re all thinking, and by “we,” I mean “people who work in the food industry.”  Somehow it’s cathartic to read someone else’s frustrations, especially when they are similar to your own.

Dish, of Hooked in Amsterdam, has just returned from a few months of gallivanting around the Pacific Northwest and getting married in Spain.  An American expat, she’s back home (away-from-home) in the Swedish countryside and about to adopt a puppy.  She’s an avid cook, and does an admirable job of sifting through the Food Network archives for worthwhile recipes.  There are also great photos of rural Sweden and anecdotes about living abroad.

Last but not least, Lady Disdain.  I literally found this blog three days ago, courtesy of WordPress’ largely useless “Possibly related links.”  I fell in love with it immediately.  Here’s why: the name come from my favorite Shakespeare play, Much Ado About Nothing; the subtitle is “Food, with a side order of snark,” snark being both a favorite word and a favorite attitude; she used the term “Bloodbath and Beyond,” and is therefore the only person I know besides myself who calls it that.  Also, the food photography is luscious.

So, nominees, to accept the award all you have to do is follow the aforementioned rules.  And to the rest of you, happy web surfing!





More Pizza Ideas

18 07 2008

Since I’ve decided my pizza/calzone dough recipe is a keeper, I’m finally going to share it with you.  But first, a couple more things I’ve done with it.  The first isn’t exactly revolutionary, but I was pretty proud to have made such a fine pizza from stuff I found lurking in the fridge.

Chorizo, Caramelized Onion, Tomato, and Goat Cheese Pizza

I think we can all agree that I have a slight addiction to caramelized onions.  I’ve taken to using them on my pizzas in place of tomato sauce.  Not that I have had any complaints.

This next pizza is an absolute stunner.  I breaded and fried eggplant slices and placed them on the pizza with a simple tomato sauce (courtesy of Nick), slices of fresh mozzarella, and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese.  Voilà!  Eggplant Parmesan Pizza!

Before - Nick thought this was too pretty NOT to photograph.

After - Drool-worthy, isn't it?

It was seriously the best pizza I’ve ever made.  The eggplant was deliciously crunchy with meltingly tender insides, and the cheese and tomato sauce complemented it perfectly.  Now I want more!

Doesn’t that just get your creative juices flowing?  Then I guess it’s time to give up the recipe:

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