Whatever the season, Paris Fashion Week is no holds barred, in-your-face fashion with a big capital “F.” It’s unapologetic, fiercely original, and often times, delightfully perplexing. Let’s face it: Parisians have a knack for taking getting dressed to the level of art form. Spring 2012 is no exception. Some of my favorite moments, full of unusual shapes, a sense of irreverence, and loads of luxury-loving wit, from a few of Paris’ most deftly creative:
1) Dries van Noten: With a sense of calm sobriety, not to mention an air of deep intelligence, Dries van Noten set an alluringly stern – yet completely fluid and enjoyable – tone for his Fall collection. He applied scarf-like prints to liquidy silk dresses and toyed with military-style menswear out of the Edwardian era. The result was a sense of vivacious modesty, a contradiction in terms that only he could execute so seamlessly. Fur-trimmed wool coats will look fantastic come fall, but it was the bursts of color that really excited me. A fur chubby in chartreuse? Yes, please!
2) Nina Ricci: Nina Ricci, designed by Peter Copping, is hitting the big time for fall. It’s as if a smart young girl got a hold of her chic mother’s wardrobe – and then turned all of her clothes on their head. With a mix of sheer and thick (a big trend for fall), oversized jackets with extra-long sleeves and wildly slit skirts abounded. Fur, slink, pearls, and froth: there is a great sense of slouch to all this ladylike garb, one that makes it feel exhilarating. Because there is, indeed, something so exhilarating about taking the most glamorous garments and just tossing them on without a care in the world.
3) Balenciaga: This season, Nicholas Ghesquière got to work. Literally. Models played the parts of high-powered office employees – at the coolest, wackiest company of all time. Some of it futuristic-slick, some of it spacesuit-wild, and some of it classical Cristóbal. High-octane metallics met boxy-stiff jackets and ultra-sheer skirts. It was all at once architectural and fluid – mixed up with a heaping of purposeful kitsch, as seen on holographic zebra-print sweatshirts and wacky metallics. No doubt about it: this is not your ordinary office, and Ghesquière is not your ordinary designer.
4) Balmain: Who would have expected the wildly young Olivier Rousteing (he’s only 26!) to revive the house of Balmain to its glory days? But it’s happening. Last season, he was infatuated with Las Vegas; this time, he’s taking another slice of Americana, but it’s not so literal. It was the Fabergé egg that belonged to Elizabeth Taylor, which he saw at Christie’s on a trip to New York, that got his wheels turning. It materialized in the form of ornate embroidery, spectacularly embellished velvet pants, and cozy sweaters. Oh, and the Balmain blazer? Like so much at PFW, it’s big and boxy. Balmain’s sense of opulence is right on.
They says simplicity is sophistication. I disagree: I think it’s chic, and that’s why meeting Anthony Thomas Melillo, the founder of the line ATM, was an exciting moment. Not only is he completely charming, but Anthony, or Tony as he’s known, launched a concept based on something simple: a luxurious tee shirt. He explained the artistry to me in the sense that a tee shirt is his uniform (same here!), and there really wasn’t anything thoughtfully designed in the market that filled that niche. One day, the idea was suggested to him, and he decided to go with it.
Tony spent months in Peru developing the material, fit, and colors of what would be the first collection. From small details like a wider neck (8″ vs. 7 1/4″) to three tags (sewn, printed, and a “tattoo” under the right arm to match an actual tattoo), the shirt is a fabulous success. He also plans on rolling out new colors and styles each season.
If you have a mix and match wardrobe, this shirt works perfectly, and fits elegantly, since it drapes and contours. A perfect gift for any guy. Frankly, I’ll own a whole wardrobe of these soon enough…
Sold exclusively at Barneys.
Just when you thought there was absolutely nothing new to be done with denim, J Brand unleashes their spring collection. Admittedly, this isn’t the first time we have seen – or sported – leather leggings and paneled jeans. But J Brand’s take on slim-fitting legwear is so fresh it feels trailblazing.
Achieve dual-toned neutrality with the Nikko skinnies ($256). Contrasting panels are devised in supremely figure-flattering manner, and these will dress up the most simplistic of white T-shirts. The same goes for the bright blueberry Kinseys
($198), which put a new spin on the term “blue jeans.”
Statement-making florals are everywhere this spring, but I’m especially loving the way foliage is jazzing up denim. A magnified-print and cropped length make these stand out from the rest ($203). Leather gets a makeover in bright white. Skin-tight yet coolly crinkled, these snowy stunners will make heads turn
($896).
A special giveaway for couples! Kelly Lin and Chris Young are a design duo who don’t only share a marriage (their “love at second sight” story is so sweet – they met 10 years ago, only to be introduced by the same friend again last year) – they also share a sense of street-meets-rugged chic style. Laid-back pieces created for couples in mind!
Celebrate your love with his-and-hers leather jackets ($1,100 value), a perfect fit for the wardrobes of girls and guys alike. Soft crinkled leather is cropped for you and relaxed for your man, and super-soft sweatshirt lining enhances the off-duty effect. Thank you to Kelly&Chris for this fabulous giveaway! Giveaway extend til March 15th!
International readers welcome. Good luck!
你喜歡Kelly and Chris的情侶裝嗎?快來贏得一套超有型的皮革夾克!
馬上註冊就有機會贏得超有型的Kelly & Chris皮革夾克。
If you’re planning to walk down the aisle this summer, soft, loose curls and one of these ethereal headdresses is the look you want. Summer brides should embrace a somewhat relaxed sense of beauty, and Jenny Packham’s accessories get it right: elegant but not overdone.
Her vast selection of wedding-perfect headdresses (embellished with delicate elements like crystals, hand-beaded flowers, silk organza petals, and French lace) has just enough bridal details for a chic couture look that’s ultimately timeless. And they are understated enough so you won’t look like an over-decorated wedding cake.
Choose between a wide array and find what suits you best, from the Camellia, inspired by dancer Gaby Deslys’ Erte costumes, to the more bohemian Feather, with a flapper-meets-Joan Crawford influence (hundreds of bugle beads in degrade champagne create a vintage effect). The cascading Ixia II dangles gently from your hair with droplet crystals, while the decadent Poppy II swerves with crystal- and seed bead-covered loops.
Now if only picking a dress was this effortless!
I’m off to Miami next week with the boy to decompress after Fashion Week chaos and spend some quality time with him in the Florida sun! But first, I need to spend some quality time shopping. As much of a downer it can be to track down the perfect bathing suit, it’s worth it even the end! Even more important is the cover-up; this trip, I’ll be sporting simple sundresses that can be dressed up, down, and all around.
1) Dolce & Gabbana and Space: High-waisted bottoms and a structured top are thoroughly retro, especially in sweet polka-dots. Shake it up and inject a bit of St. Tropez chic with Space’s crochet-knit dress.
Pois-Print Bathing Suit
On Luisa via Romafor $453.
Cotton Crochet Knit Dress
On Luisa via Roma for $268.
2) Zimmerman: This flippy, flirty leopard sundress makes for a mix of laidback ease and spotty flash – perfect for South-Beach afternoons hanging by the pool. With the semi-coordinating Femme bikini, it’s a coherent look that’s not too matchy.
Leopard-Print Cotton-Voile Sundress
On Net-a-Porter for $280.
Femme Triangle Bikini
On Net-a-Porter for $175.
3) Lisa Marie Fernandez and Proenza Schouler: Sporty-meets-glam with Lisa Marie’s bright-white bathing suit, set off by an athletic zipper. Take your swimwear into evening by pulling Proenza’s crepe-jersey, fern-print dress on top.
The Leigh Bandeau Swimsuit
On Net-a-Porter for $495.
Fern Dress
At Barneys New York for $1,295.
Raf Simons’ swan song brought even the most jaded of fashion critics to their feet for a standing ovation. And then the applause transpired into an encore – after Raf retreated backstage, we stormed the catwalk and demanded a second exit bow from the sobbing designer. It was a hugely emotional end to a gloriously emotional collection, a fashion show like I have never before experienced.
It was also the best collection of Milan Fashion Week. With the concept of fantastical day-in-the-life of a relationship as inspiration, Simons took his studied sense of minimalism to the absolute max. Marshmallow-pink and creamy blush, cappuccino-chestnut and dove-gray: the billowing, double-faced coats were as gorgeous as they were soft and swingy. Camisole-style slip-dresses and sweetheart necklines exuded ultimate femininity – along with a strong undertone, thanks to the combination of wisp-thin jerseys and studier cable-knits. Sensual slits and cutouts, along with panels of PVC, injected edge to this romantic “day.” Glitter and sequin accessories, juxtaposed with serenely elegant clothes, glamorized the collection and took the Sander woman to new heights.
Raf Simons speaks the language of fashion with the imaginative intelligence and precise dreaminess of a poet, and his final verses read as his masterpiece. Bravo.
The biggest night in Hollywood turned out some of the most beautiful gowns we have seen in ages. Forget the golden statues. We know the real winners are the ladies who blow everyone away with the perfect dress. White gowns proved to be the evening’s clear favorite (though some should be left on the aisle, not displayed on the red carpet), while the best crimson dresses were more demure than siren-sultry. My top five looks that stole the awards show:
1. Li Bingbing: The beautiful Chinese actress managed to show up all the Americans. Li did white right with her textural Georges Chakra gown and Cindy Chao 18kt white gold, pave diamond Maple Leaf
Earrings and 18kt yellow gold, pave yellow and white diamond Flaming Floral Ruby cuff, which flawlessly picked up the dress’ embellishments.
2. Michelle Williams: Michelle managed to look like herself yet better than ever in tiers of peplum by Louis Vuitton. I love the fifties feel to the dress (a nod to Marilyn’s heyday), but with her short hair, simple makeup, and a blush Bottega Veneta clutch, it’s all very modern.
3. Milla Jovovich: Classically glamorous, Milla’s elegant silvery white Elie Saab gown floated down the carpet like crystal liquid. Perfect hair, makeup, and an Edie Parker clutch completed her 1940s screen-siren look.
4. Emma Stone: Emma may be a new face at the Oscars, but her knack for red-carpet dressing oozes wisdom. I can’t decide what’s more gorgeous about her uplifting Giambattista Valli gown: the color or the silhouette. Overall, it’s so fresh, modern, and full of personality – just like her.
5. Rooney Mara: For once, everyone’s favorite It girl turned up the glam factor. High. The combination of her blunt, Betty Page-meets-punk bangs, a boldly dark red lip, and delicately wispy Haute Couture Givenchy dress was so chic. My favorite of the evening.
Miuccia Prada’s nearly identical battalion of models – each sporting lash-line-to-brow eye shadow and pin-straight, extension-enhanced hair, slicked back for a feeling of digital-world severity – said it all. For this collection, she was zeroing into a narrow focus and sticking with it. But that’s not to say Fall 2012 doesn’t have a feeling of broad exploration and variety. This time, Miuccia says it’s about “the pleasure of fashion,” not ��the theory.” Fine by me! I’m all for pleasure.
And who can’t find some in the chunky-jewel embellishments and magnified embroidery that harks back to earlier days of Prada? Thick black wool got the royal treatment, enhanced to the nines; then the show moved swiftly along into endless splashes of color. Geometric, Op-Art patterns (enough to make your head spin) brought new meaning to the term “menswear-inspired,” which many of the double-breasted jackets and pleat-front trouser pants, cropped and cuffed right above the ankle, were. Pajama-esque silhouettes softened things up and offered a sense of flow.
Kooky layers of long tunic-like vests and rounded, mid-calf-length skirts were placed over similar yet contrasting-print pants, for a feeling of mix-and-match fun. It all reminds me of the Prada we all loved in the nineties: irreverent, structured, strong, jovial, and always intellectual. Let’s not forget: Prada can even make the skant look good!
If there was ever a magical land to find both men and the clothes they wear, it’s London. Home of both innovative fashion and Savile Row, London is a provider of enchantment and beauty. Here’s a brief roundup of my favorites:
J.W. Anderson:
I got excited for this collection when I saw his women’s collection early in the week. It was extremely cool and definitely a positive shock. That said, he’s a man with a magical touch. Hope to see all the Man Snob’s wearing this come fall!
Belstaff:
Another brand with a legacy, Belstaff is beyond legit, and gosh, can they create a one hell of a magical jacket. Images from the presentation excited me, since this is a company that can alter how men dress. Their reputation (which began with motorcycle jackets!) is everything that makes them what they are. Looking forward to seeing myself and others wearing Belstaff, natch.
E. Tautz:
It doesn’t get more old-world London than with E. Tautz, a brand with a pedigree and a passion. A beautiful designer of menswear, they always know how to make a man look sophisticated, yet fun. The show was a highlight of LFW, and it showcases the best of it.