DOVER, Kan. — To taste the best pie in the United States, I took Interstate 70 in Kansas to the Kansas 4 exit west of Topeka, headed southwest until I reached a gravel road. I veered right about a mile and entered the 19th century.
I was in Dover, a town so small that it’s unincorporated and hasn’t reached triple digits in population. I knew when I arrived. The first structure I saw was the Sommerset Hall Cafe, a white, stately two-story building with a history that dates back to 1868.
The inside appeared as if it hadn’t changed much since then. Bags of flour shared shelf space with cans of old-fashioned beans. John Deere posters lined the walls.
From this slice of Americana Norman Rockwell couldn’t capture as well comes the best pie in America. How do I know? “Good Morning America” said it. I tried it. It may not be the best I’ve ever had — how can you beat Mom’s chocolate pie with fresh whipped cream? — but it’s the best I’ve ever bought.
The woman who put Dover on the national culinary map is one Norma Grubb, an 89-year-old great grandmother of 28 and great-great grandmother of 11. She has lived in Dover since 1934 and is not just a cook but a tourist attraction.
ABC News’ Diane Sawyer wanted a pie sent to her for a cruise. Tourists from as far away as Florida have dropped by for dessert. Entire tour buses make detours off I-70.
“They’re just pies,” Grubb said with a shrug.
Apparently, they’re not. The circus started coming to Dover when Dover native Janet Sage- Bruce, who’d loved Grubb’s pies since she began working there in 1995, sent a pie to “Good Morning America” for its Best Slice Challenge.
One day, Grubb learned her pie was in 10th place.
“I didn’t know anything about the contest,” Grubb said. “Three days later, they say I’m in the top four.”
Top four? For “Good Morning America,” that’s big news. Show correspondent Marisol Castro came to Dover to interview Grubb, film her cooking some of the 10 pies she produces every morning and, of course, sample.
After one bite, it was obvious Grubb’s pie moved up to frontrunner.
“Marisol was licking the pan,” Grubb said. “She said, ‘Norma, keep doing what you’re doing. I’m busy.’ ”
She was declared winner on Nov. 23. The secret? The light crust is shortening, flour, water and a teaspoon of salt. The filling is 3 cups milk, ¾ cup sugar, 3 egg yolks, 4 tablespoons cornstarch, 1 teaspoon vanilla and 1/4 cup of shredded coconut.
It’s topped with a meringue made of 3 egg whites and 2 tablespoons sugar.
OK, I’m not a meringue guy. But when she browned the remaining coconut and sprinkled it over the meringue it got me. The coconut filling is soft and is laced with coconut slivers. And the best part? It’s still only $2 a slice.
If you don’t like coconut cream, make the trip anyway. Dover is a step back in time and Grubb and her partner, Connie, also make apple crunch, blackberry, cherry and peach.
“She’s awesome,” said Lora Yeomans, one of her 23 grandchildren. “I can’t eat any other pie. It’s not worth it.”
Grubb has become almost as big a celebrity as Bill Snyder, the legendary football coach who has returned to Kansas State up the road. The House of Representatives and state Senate honored her Feb. 9. Project Topeka raffled off one of her pies for $360. Schools use them for fundraising.
Her picture and story have been in Kansas magazine, Topeka magazine, Kansas Country Living, the Kansas City Star and the Wichita Eagle.
“For this dinky little town,” Grubb said, “this is crazy.”
John Henderson: 303-954-1299 or jhenderson@denverpost.com
If You Go
Sommerset Hall Cafe, 501 Douglas Road, Dover, Kan., 785-256-6223.
