The Best Polyurethane Finish For Wood Floors For Long-Lasting Protection & Sheen

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Wood floors, both softwood flooring and hardwood, are a beautiful, durable, and practical flooring solution. As a professional woodworker, I am often pleased to see hardwood floors gracing ultra-modern homes all the way to Victorian houses. But the key to keeping wooden floors looking good in any setting is how they are finished. Back in the day, varnishes, gums, and resins dissolved in a solvent were the best options available and the primary floor finish for hundreds of years. In modern times, those varnishes have been replaced primarily by polyurethane finishes because they outperform traditional varnishes in terms of durability while providing the same beautiful look. Another benefit is that you can pick your sheen, whether it's satin polyurethane or semi-gloss.

For decades, the only polyurethane available was oil-based with the urethane polymers dissolved in a solvent and suspended in oil. It added a rich amber hue to wood. It also took longer to dry and produced a strong and unpleasant odor. But in recent decades a water-based (or more properly, waterborne) polyurethane product has come on the market. The polymers dispersed by this formula are similar to those in the oil-based product, but because there is no oil, waterborne polyurethane does not add amber color to the finish. And also, sans oil, the curing time for waterborne poly is much faster and it has low volatile organic compounds or VOCs, so it's not smelly. For finishing wood flooring, whether it's a new installation or a refinish for an old wood floor, I typically recommend an oil-based product, but it depends on your needs. There are neat hacks to make an oil-based application easier, too.

Oil-based polyurethane is a versatile and durable floor finish. (It's also used on furniture and cabinetry.) It's available in various sheens and scores of brands make their own versions — though the difference between them isn't dramatic. The combination of durability and beauty is what makes it a great choice for wooden floors. Some people find the fact that it adds an amber color to the wood to be a positive, some folks don't. It's easy to apply — use a lambswool floor finishing applicator or high-quality roller. Two coats are recommended. Oil-based polyurethane "flows" or evens out as it is applied, making it simple to lay down a smooth, even film finish. And once it cures, it is a low-maintenance floor. Finally, the oil-based poly is less costly than water-based.

The downsides of oil-based polyurethane start with its smell. It is extremely pungent, and many people find it objectionable. The VOCs in the mix require you to wear an N95 or an organic filter mask, and you should ventilate the room well. The second major downside when compared to waterborne polyurethane is you need to clean up with mineral spirits, which is a fairly harsh chemical. Another con on the list is that it takes a long time to dry (cure) — two to four hours for dry to the touch, and up to 12 hours for recoating. My personal recommendation is that your give your floor three or four days after the final coat before you move furniture back into place. The finish will be hardening all that time.

The most favorable factor for water-based polyurethane is that it has low VOCs and almost no odor. That's a huge difference from oil-based poly. The polymers dispersed in the waterborne product go on extremely clear and do not amber the wood at all. Some folks, especially when finishing a light-colored wood like maple, love that it dries water-clear, although it looks milky-white in the can. It's easy to apply with a brush or roller, but I prefer a painting pad with a synthetic pad. I use it to apply multiple thin coats. I get better control of the application, and it dries very fast, allowing many coats in a day. However you apply it, it will dry much faster than the oil-based product, only requiring about one hour to dry and three hours between coats. For cleaning up, use water and soap.

The drawbacks to waterborne poly begin with its formulation. It has significantly less solids (polymers) per gallon than oil-based polyurethane. So, you will need to apply at least four coats and up to eight to get an acceptable film coat, especially in a flooring application. It does not cure as hard as the oil-based stuff. Despite the added coats, it will scratch and dent much more easily than the other. Yu should expect to do regular touch-ups and refinishing every two years or so. Additionally, the first coat or two you apply are so thin and have no color, so they will be nearly invisible. Pay close attention to be certain that you are not missing an area when you are applying it.

Subjectively, do you prefer the water-clear look of the water-based product to the amber effect of the oil-based? If so, your choice is clear. (Pardon the pun.) The quality of waterborne polyurethane has improved over the years. I use it on doors, kitchen cabinets, furniture, picture frames, or wooden toys. It will do a fine job of protecting the wood and its slightly more elastic film coat may be better in some circumstances where wood movement may be more extreme.

However, for surfaces that get a lot of tough wear, I recommend oil-based polyurethane. It's just so much tougher. Nothing gets tougher use than floors, so my advice is to use oil-based polyurethane on floors every time. (Yep, every time.) I can almost see your disappointment that the stinky and more-difficult-to-clean poly is the one I recommend. And I get it. So, here's a professional hack that will lift your spirits. 

When I finish a wooden floor, I use two products. The first is Zinsser SealCoat, a dewaxed shellac sanding sealer. Shellac is a hard, tough finish that dries in about 15 minutes, with recoating in an hour, and it smells good. I put down two or three shellac coats, sanding between them. I follow up with a single coat of oil-based polyurethane. The shellac is more than hard enough to stand up to floor traffic, but still susceptible to chemicals like alcohol. So, I build up the film coat with shellac and top it off with oil-based polyurethane for its amazing durability. That way, you get the benefits of the oil formula without too many of the downsides.