Cacio e pepe is a symbol of Rome – like the Colosseum, it's an institution. It embodies the soul of a city devoted to grandeur and majesty but which never forgets the people, the simplicity of their raucous neighborhoods. Like all things Roman, cacio e pepe also thrives on controversy and interpretation. Tonnarelli, rigatoni, spaghetti, or even mezze maniche. There are dozens and dozens of versions, some admit to being adaptations, others insist they are the original recipe. They can be found all over the city. They all have one thing in common, they all claim they’re the best in Rome.
Its humble shepherd origins
The history of this traditional Italian dish, symbol of Rome, was born among the pastures during the seasonal movement of livestock. During the long migrations of the flock, the shepherds of the Roman countryside filled their sacks with high-calorie and long-lasting food. Among the dried tomatoes and guanciale they also found space for a few slices of pecorino cheese, a bag of black peppercorns and a good quantity of dried spaghetti prepared by hand with water, salt, and flour. There’s a reason why these last three ingredients were chosen. Black pepper directly stimulates the heat receptors and helped the shepherds to protect themselves from the cold. Aged pecorino keeps for a long time. And pasta guaranteed the right amount of carbohydrates and calories. This dish, which over the years has spread from the Lazio countryside to the mountains of Abruzzo and Umbria, easily made the leap and transformed itself from a frugal meal to a dish typical of Roman taverns. According to tradition, the tavern-keepers at the time were careful to serve a “dry” cacio e pepe in order to stimulate business. The dish, in fact, had to stick in the throat so customers would need wine to wash the pasta down. The more cacio a pepe they ate, the more wine they drank.
What type of pasta with cacio e pepe?
Traditional cacio e pepe uses spaghetti, but over the years almost all types of pasta have been combined with this sauce. Versions made with rigatoni or tonnarelli, or even egg pasta are very common. Lately, the use of tagliolini and spaghetti alla chitarra has also taken hold with the increased creaminess of the dish. Purists, however, argue that tonnarelli (along with egg noodles) are too porous and absorb too much sauce.
The creamy secret
The secret of cacio e pepe lies both in the ingredients and in the chef’s ability to prepare it. Fundamental to this typical dish of popular Roman cuisine is the mixing of the ingredients to obtain the famous “cremina.” Finding the right balance between cheese and cooking water is by no means easy. To make the ingredients amalgamate into a smooth cremina, you have to add just the right amount of cooking water, alternating it with pecorino to get a good consistency. Many argue that the best way is to finish the cooking of the cacio e pepe in a pan so as to allow the spaghetti to release starch, which is fundamental for the sauce to amalgamate perfectly. Remember that the original recipe does not include oil, butter or cream to make the cremina – so proper ingredients, dosage, and technique are crucial.