After giving my second talk in Lviv, at the Ivan Franco State University, I enjoyed a quiet evening. The next day I listened to a few education talks at the conference running at the Lviv Catholic University. It was very interesting to see that education research in Ukraine follows very similar patterns to those in the U.S. After having lunch and a very pleasant conversation with Tetiana Zaharchenko, I spent the whole day walking around the center of Lviv, doing work in various coffee shops, and having a very nice traditional Ukrainian dinner of borscht, vareniki, and salo. I finished off the meal with a pint of very nice dark beer, walked around the city a bit more, and headed over to the train station where I took an overnight train to Kyiv. The sleeping cot was not incredibly comfortable, but I was able to sleep for a few hours.
Upon arriving in Kyiv, I was greeted by air raid sirens. Fortunately, I was able to get to my hotel quickly where I had some breakfast and I slept through two different rounds of air raid sirens before taking a shower and getting ready for a great day ahead! Masha Vlasenko picked me up a little after 1 p.m. and took me to a very cool restaurant that served rice bowls with various ingredients. When we took a trolly to the Kyiv School of Economics, we went past the circus where I once went with my father in 1978 when we were visiting my grandmother’s brother Misha.
The Kyiv School of Economics is a very interesting place. The building is very modern, equipped with all possible modern technologies, a nice coffee shop downstairs, a basketball court outside, and several ping-pong tables. The bomb shelter has several classrooms and plenty of electronic equipment. This came very handy at the end of my second lecture as we are going to see in a moment. My first lecture was very lively. The participants, mostly advanced undergraduate and graduate students asked many questions and worked very hard to understand the content. This made me think that it would be a real pleasure to teach a course for them sometime soon. Indeed, Masha Vlasenko and I discussed this possibility and will continue talking about it in the months to come.
In the evening, I walked around the city and had dinner at a very pleasant Georgian restaurant. After a long day, a bowl of Harcho was exactly what I needed, and I went to sleep fairly early after looking over the lecture notes one more time. Perhaps for the first time in my professional life, I added a theorem that I proved just in the past few days. I am going to have a post about it sometime in the next few days.
My last day in Kyiv was quite eventful. I spent the whole morning walking around the city, focusing on Independence Square and the surrounding area. The pictures of the fallen soldiers and civilians made a deep impression on me. Observing the war in Ukraine from afar is completely different than being here and feeling the atmosphere. I am determined to come back soon and contribute to the revival of this beautiful and determined nation.
While I was walking around downtown, I noticed that the percentage of people speaking Ukrainian has significantly increased. Twelve years ago, when I was here, most of the people spoke Russian. During this visit, my guess is that only about a third of the people spoke Russian. I did not hear a single young person speak Russian. At the same time, those who spoke Russian seemed comfortable doing so. The question I asked myself is what would have happened if someone spoke Ukrainian at a cafe in Moscow. The answer is obvious.
After arriving at the Kyiv School of Economics, I had lunch with Masha and another faculty member Giorgii. We then went to the mathematical institute on the second floor of the KSE building and discussed some mathematics before my lecture began. This was my final lecture in Ukraine and I was very inspired. The students were even more engaged and asked even more questions. When I was about to discuss the final result of the lectures, the air raid sirens went off and we had to complete the lectures in the bomb shelter, a very comfortable facility I mentioned earlier. When the lecture ended a mathematical discussion gave way to the discussion of my childhood in Ukraine. One of the participants, a local data scientist, presented me with a “smetannik”, a local desert I remember from my childhood in Lviv. This was a very nice gesture that I will always remember.
In the evening I went to a Tatat restaurant “Musafir” recommended by Masha and had a very nice dinner. I was quite tired and went to my hotel room soon after to pack and get a few hours of sleep before waking up at 5 a.m. to catch the train I am on right now to Lviv. Rostyslav is going to meet me at the train station and I will spend a few more hours in Lviv before taking a bus to Rzeszow from where I am going to fly to Warsaw, and then on to London, from where I am going to travel back to United States. I will never forget this trip!