A member of the extended Pinot family of grape varieties, Pinot Gris (Grigio) is a pink-skinned mutation of Pinot Noir. The two grape varieties are indistinguishable in the vineyard right up until veraison.
Pinot Gris berries take on their distinctive array of colors; anything from orange-pink to pale, dusty purple. The adjective Gris is French for "gray", and refers to the dusty, light-gray sheen the grapes often take on. This convention is widely used in Europe, notably in Italian (Grigio), German (grauer), Slovenian (sivi) and Czech (sede).
The color is very different to that of Pinot Blanc, another mutation of Pinot:
Flavor and aroma
Although sometimes used as a blending component, Pinot Gris is usually produced as a varietal wine as grapes are naturally low in acidity and high in sugars. Flavors and aromas vary greatly from region to region and from style to style. But common features include notes of pears, apples, stonefruit, tropical fruit and even a hint of smoke or wet wool.
Most winemakers avoid obvious oak character in their Pinot Gris, but some use older more neutral barrels for fermentation or aging. This imparts a creamier texture that may slightly neutralizes some acidity. For weightier, more complex styles of Pinot Gris, lees contact and partial malolactic fermentation are commonly used. Sweet late-harvest wines are also common that feature tropical fruits and sweet spice.
The finest Pinot Gris wines come from the world's cooler viticultural regions. Those from warmer climates tend to lack acidity and structure and can seem too alcoholic.
Viticulture
In the vineyard, Pinot Grigio is susceptible to a variety of diseases. Bunches of Pinot Grigio are small and compact creating an ideal harbor for botrytris and other bunch rot diseases. In Italy, Malattia del Pinot Grigio ("Pinot Grigio disease") causes leaf deformation and diminished yields. The virus has spread to to other countries.
Due to the naturally low acidity of the grapes, in a hot summer, the picking date is particularly important. An earlier date in the ripening period results in a higher acidity level at a compromise of sugar and flavor compound accumulation. Careful consideration is required from vignerons.
Harvest date can have a clear impact on the color as well. As Pinot Grigio ripens it can take on a pinkish hue although colors vary from blue-gray to pinkish-brown. It is not uncommon for a single vine to exhibit a variety of colors. Wines produced from riper grapes are generally much more golden in color.
Pinot Gris (Grigio) regions
Alsace
Many of Europe's showcase examples come from the Alsace region in France. The wines are made in varying levels of sweetness, from bone dry to lusciously sweet. A Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles from Alsace is one of the sweetest, most intensely flavored wines on earth.
For centuries, Alsatian Pinot Gris was titled Tokay d'Alsace. In 1984, the European Commission initiated the transition to Tokay Pinot Gris to remove the confusion associated with Hungary's prestigious Tokaji wines. After 80 years of negociation, on the 1st of January 2007, the transitional period ended and any reference of Tokay Pinot Gris became "Pinot Gris".
German Grauburgunder
Over the Rhine/Rhein river, Pinot Gris is grown mainly under Grauburgunder (Grey Burgundy). Key regions are Baden, Rheinhessen and Pfalz. It accounts for 7-percent of the country's total vineyard area. Grauer Burgunder and Grauer Riesling are also found.
Italian Pinot Grigio
From the north of Italy in particular, Pinot Grigio is most commonly described as a lean and crisp dry white with relatively high acidity that adds a spritzy sensation, complemented by aromas of lemon, lime, green apple and blossoms.
This "everyday" Grigio Italian style is achieved firstly by harvesting the grapes relatively early. This is done in an attempt to retain as much fresh acidity as possible. Otherwise, the variety is naturally quite low in acidity.
To retain freshness and "zing", fermentation and storage typically take place in stainless steel tanks. If barrels were used, this would add palate weight and sweet vanilla aromas. This would detract significantly from the clean, simple style, and also raise costs. This type of Pinot Grigio wine is almost always intended for consumption within a year or two of harvest. Extended cellaring is neither required nor advisable.
Northeastern Italy (Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Trentino-Alto Adige) is the Pinot Grigio producing heartland. The region exports vast quantities of the wine each year, mostly to the United Kingdom and USA.
However, it should be noted that there are also plenty of examples of premium wines. These can achieve a weight and texture comparable to almost any Pinot Gris bottling. The very best wines can get close to the quality of Alsace Grand Cru wines.
The Pinot Grigio wines of Alto Adige - Südtirol in northern Italy can certainly contradict the notion that all wines with "Grigio" on the label are light and simple. This is especially so with the brightly rich, floral examples from Bolzano and the Oltradige. It can also apply to the mineral-laden bottlings from the Adige Valley.
Wines made in the Val Venosta tend to be slimmer and fresher and more suited to the "Grigio" banner as described above. The variety is the most cultivated in the region, with around 630 hectares (1550 acres). Friuli and Collio in northeastern Italy can also be the source of riper styles with good weight of fruit.
Sparkling and sweet wines
In many parts of Italy, the variety is used to make frizzante (semi sparkling) or spumante (sparkling) wines. But it is notably absent from the nation's most serious sparkling style, Franciacorta (where Pinot Bianco is allowed). Meanwhile the most popular, Prosecco, can only feature up to 15-percent Pinot Grigio against 85-percent Glera.
Pinot Grigio is rarely the base of sweeter or dessert wines in Italy. Medium or sweet Pinot Gris is more associated with Alsace, and on a much smaller scale with New Zealand.
Slovenia
Many high-quality Pinot Grigio wines are made in Italy's neighbor Slovenia. Indeed, several top Friuli terroirs, such as the Gorizia hills (home of Collio Goriziano) extend across the border. A number of wineries have plots in both countries.
Pinot Gris (Grigio) in the New World
In the New World wine regions, wine labels can feature Gris or Grigio. The choice tend to reflect the distinction between the richer Pinot Gris and lighter, fresher Pinot Grigio styles. However, price should also be taken into consideration when anticipating the style. Some wineries in the New World have chosen to produce both Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris wines. These are usually marketed respectively as aperitifs and food wines.
The variety is most prominent in the United States, where it is often called "Greej". Oregon leads the way but Washington State and California are also important.
A wide range of styles at varying price points are made in New Zealand where it is the third most-planted white grape. However, it represents only six percent of national wine production, and two percent of exports. In Australia it is grown in regions such as the Adelaide Hills.
Further synonyms
The Vitis International Variety Catalogue lists hundreds of synonyms for the variety. This diversity is thanks to the genetic diversity of the "Pinot Family" as well as the considerable length of time that Pinot Grigio has been cultivated in Italy.
Popular alternatives include Ruländer (an alternate name in Germany), Grauklevner, Malvoisie (in the Loire, Savoie and Switzerland), Fromenteau Gris, Pinot Beurot, Auvernat Gris, Auxerrois Gris, Szurkebarat and Sivi Pinot. In Hungary, it is Szürkebarát meaning "gray-friendly".
Food pairing suggestions
From the motherland of Alsace, the sweeter and more age worthy Pinot Gris pairs well with local foods such as rich pork dishes, chestnuts, foie gras and Flammekueche - a flatbread with bacon and onion.
Chicken and rustic vegetables as well as duck and lamb will match fuller versions well. The acidity will also compliment cream-based dishes and soft cheeses such as chevre (goat cheese) and Roquefort.
Lighter versions, including less expensive Italian Grigio wines, are, by their nature adaptable. They suit nibbles at a drinks party, but can "get out of the way of" bolder flavored foods. The crisp acidity and citrussy volatile aroma compounds suit shellfish dishes and grilled white fish. Pinot Grigio is often served with pasta and risotto with a cream or tomato-based sauce.
