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I have never soldered a PLCC SMT socket onto a PCB before and would like some advice.

Seems common to break (cut) the base out of the socket and then use a soldering iron either just pin by pin, or drag soldering. Not sure how 'correct' breaking the base out is.

How would everyone on here approach it? Might it be possible to use solder paste and hot air and leave the base in?

Here is the socket and pads:

PLCC-52 socket

KiCAD pad image

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  • \$\begingroup\$ The IC itself would be much easier to solder than this socket. \$\endgroup\$
    – Uwe
    Commented 2 days ago
  • \$\begingroup\$ @Uwe It would but I need a socket for a prototype \$\endgroup\$
    – David777
    Commented 2 days ago
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ You can use solder paste and hot air without cutting the base. \$\endgroup\$
    – tepalia
    Commented 2 days ago
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ There are other PLCC sockets that may be soldered just like the IC itself but these sockets are higher. Look for CB 3306841 CB 3306941 CB 3306846 CB 3306944 from Seltronics seltronics.de/wb267/pages/o-online-katalog/adapter-converter/… \$\endgroup\$
    – Uwe
    Commented yesterday
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ The datasheet of the socket from Seltronics is MA7-11-2.pdf \$\endgroup\$
    – Uwe
    Commented yesterday

4 Answers 4

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I usually cut out the plastic in the center, then use a fine tip. I assume you use the socket for a prototype and not for actual production.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Yeah this is a prototype so stuck in a socket. Other boards have EEPROMs so sockets are required for removing to program etc \$\endgroup\$
    – David777
    Commented 2 days ago
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ I ended up cutting out the centre and soldering as usual :D \$\endgroup\$
    – David777
    Commented 23 hours ago
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These are rather painful to solder no matter how you do it. Paste + hot air is probably how you are supposed to solder it with no reflow oven. It will be tricky to heat all pads somewhat evenly though.

Otherwise it is perfectly possible to hand solder it and that's how I do it personally. Just use a small tip. For SMD work, I particularly like those with a bent conical tip. If you are skilled and using such a tip, these are possible to solder without melting any plastic.

If that proves too hard, you could indeed cut off the plastic plate at the bottom, which I suppose is mainly there to make sure that the walls of the socket remain straight during the plastic molding of the component itself.

Yet another option is to solder the PLCC component directly onto the PCB and skip the socket. This gives the best and most reliable connection, but then the component is obviously stuck there.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ For paste + hot air, apply solder paste first along all pads, then place socket and heat? \$\endgroup\$
    – David777
    Commented 2 days ago
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ @David777 Yeah though I'm not sure if it is better to try to get the heat in underneath from the side or from above. There should be an air gap between the plastic and the PCB but maybe not enough. \$\endgroup\$
    – Lundin
    Commented 2 days ago
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I’d be inclined to heat the PCB from below so you’ll avoid melting the plastic. Solder paste would be preferable but you could tin the pads with an iron and then reflow the socket onto the solder

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  • \$\begingroup\$ This seems to best but I don't have a heat plate and the board is mostly already assembled. Just the socket left to assemble. \$\endgroup\$
    – David777
    Commented 2 days ago
  • \$\begingroup\$ Do you have a hot air gun? \$\endgroup\$
    – Frog
    Commented 2 days ago
  • \$\begingroup\$ No but I intend on getting one anyway \$\endgroup\$
    – David777
    Commented 2 days ago
  • \$\begingroup\$ Would you recommend hot air for this? \$\endgroup\$
    – David777
    Commented 2 days ago
  • \$\begingroup\$ Soldering parts like this is tricky with hot air but possible. In a reflow oven you’d raise the temperature just enough to melt the solder, but with hot air I would typically use 300+C and that tends to melt plastic parts. Before I had the proper equipment I used a toaster-oven with a glass door, I would set it to 200C and watch for the solder paste melting (OK for lead solder but possibly not hot enough for lead-free). \$\endgroup\$
    – Frog
    Commented 19 hours ago
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I would try to use a PLCC52 socket from Seltronics

http://www.seltronics.de/wb267/

enter image description here

enter image description here

Translation

Version A (left) Angled SMT connectors with a large soldering surface ensure high pull-off forces. The mating side is for PLCC sockets in JEDEC packages.

Version B (right) For soldering to circuit boards using SMT technology. The pins on the soldering side are flat.

Technical specifications:

Contact pin: Thermally cracked brass, 0.2 μm gold-plated

Insulator: Glass-fiber-reinforced thermoplastic polyester, self-extinguishing according to UL 94 V-0

Mating cycles: > 500

Operating voltage: 100 VRMS

Test voltage: > 600 VRMS

Contact to contact insulation resistance: > 50 GΩ

Current carrying capacity: 3 A per contact

Temperature range: -55 to +125°C Soldering resistance: 260°C, 10 sec. 215°C, 2 min.

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