San Sebastián - Where Michelin Stars Meet Postcard Views

I arrived in Biarritz in France for my trip to Spain. Yes, it sounds odd but the Basque region sits across both countries and San Sebastian is actually just as close to this international airport as it is to the nearest one in Spain (Bilbao).

Everywhere here can lay claim to being a foodie paradise, and its hard to pick just one place out. San Sebastian (more accurately known as Donostia locally) also boasts award-winning beaches (great for surfing) a walkable historic centre and scenic views that are rewarding throughout the year. I actually arrived a week or so after the film festival and had apparently missed Brad Pitt by a few days.

As it turned out I didn't regret the timing of my visit at all, as it seems like the place is always buzzing with activity. Oh, and the cuisine is a constant made for everyone to enjoy!

As mentioned, San Sebastian is home to one of the best film festivals in the world. There's a strong link to the entertainment industry that goes beyond this event at the Hotel Maria Cristina, A Luxury Collection Hotel which is within walking distance of the red carpet. From the fabled Bette Davis suite to the spectacular Belle Époque interiors that look like they stepped out of a Wes Anderson movie, this is the place to see, and to be seen.

For more than a century the Hotel Maria Cristina has stood at the heart of San Sebastian. A mansion in golden stone, it dominates the city from its prime position on the banks of the river Urumea within sight of the Cantabrian sea. Named after the Spanish queen who vacationed here and brought Europe’s fashionable upper classes in her wake, this grandest of grand hotels is both an expression of Basque culture and a cornerstone of the city’s social scene.

Recent renovations have elevated the property to modern standards but maintained every aspect of the original feeling the building projected. Ostentatious flourishes are deliberate statements, you always know you are stepping into a bygone era that is kept as a sanctuary from the outside world.

The Mimo San Sebastián food shop and cooking school represent a fabulous new addition to the hotel’s range of services. The Mimo store, on the ground floor within the hotel foyer, offers a brilliantly curated range of Spanish ingredients. If you like that, you’ll love the in-house Mimo Cooking School, a unique venue for learning about and enjoying Spanish food.

Classes end with a group lunch featuring dishes cooked on the day along with wine pairings chosen by Mimo’s sommeliers – and it all happens in a fun and friendly atmosphere.

>> Book the Mimo Bite the Experience

With exceptional fine dining for lunch and a sumptuous dry bar in the lobby, you'll feel like you've already tried some of the best food in San Sebastian without stepping foot outside of the hotel, but trust me the best is yet to come.

Amelia was born in San Sebastián in 2017 as Argentine chef Paulo Airaudo’s most personal project. After building his career in some of Europe’s leading restaurants, and with his Italian roots, Airaudo chose the city to develop a cuisine of his own.

Awarded two MICHELIN stars, Amelia has evolved alongside Airaudo since it first opened. Following different stages in San Sebastián, in 2026 the restaurant began a new chapter at Hotel María Cristina, a Luxury Collection Hotel, one of the city’s great icons.

The interiors are playful, with pop art and 80s memorabilia adorning the walls and shelves around an intimate counter space facing the open kitchen. There are a handful of tables too, if you want a more romantic experience, but nothing beats a seat in the heart of the action. Amelia is accessible via a 'secret' door in the hotel itself, all adding to the sense of occasion before you dine.

Proceedings for their set menu start with a selection of ingredients being shown to the diners. You can tell that these are top quality ingredients but there are still some dishes that will come out purely based on what chef has in for the day.

Airaudo has put together the unique offering of 'Italian Omakase'. The team work with ingredients selected at source, without establishing rigid geographical boundaries. A fish market in the Basque Country, an Italian producer or a Japanese supplier can all be part of the same menu when the quality and relevance of the ingredient justify it.

Main dishes are prepared à la minute, respecting timings and cooking points so that each ingredient reaches the table at precisely the right moment. With that in mind, you are politely asked at the start of service to let the waiting staff know if you need to excuse yourself to use the restroom. Timings are literally that tight, that dishes will only be in front of you when you are there!

What can you say about curated menus like this without sounding privileged? Of course its an unforgettable experience that is on the high end in terms of cost. Its worth it (in my opinion) too, but the beauty of San Sebastian, and of the hotel, is that there are options for all types of foodies.

To get a flavour of San Sebastian there is nothing better than taking a walk through the Old Town and bar hopping for pintxos (and pairing drinks). For those wondering, the small bites served in the north are similar to tapas (typically found in Andalusia and other parts of Spain) but there are subtle differences. Pintxos are traditionally served from cocktail sticks or on a slice of bread, although these days they are prepared as larger dishes. Tapas are small bites served on plates that often cover your drink. Honestly, I struggle to tell the difference, although the one thing they do have in common is that they are equally yummy!

Basque Tours have a selection of excursions you can book across the region. If you have more than a few days here, the full day trips to vineyards beyond the city centre have a great reputation. The hotel can help organise these for you and the pick up is usually the lobby area. Our local guide for the evening trip to try pintxos was Veronica, and on the way to the first stop she explained how the gilda was invented in 1946 and is considered to be the first of its kind. Its a simple snack with anchovies, guindilla pepper and olives assembled on a cocktail stick.

As we saw on the rest of the tour, subsequent creations have certainly elevated the concept. From squid ink coated croquettes to suckling pig (cochinillo) and beef cheeks, the modern dishes have become internationally renowned. While we were on our 3 hour tour, we spotted a famous Youtube food vlogger filming an episode of his series at a tapas bar that was said to be one of Anthony Bourdain's personal favourites.

I now understood why the food in San Sebastian is considered to be among some of the best in the world. The dishes, ingredients and techniques used here are never overly complex but still maintain a flavour profile that feels earthy.

To complete our culinary odyssey through the city, on our final night we were lucky enough to experience a unique local curiosity that has become the stuff of legend.

Jon, the founder and CEO of Basque Tours took us to the local market to start the process of a trip to a txoko. These San Sebastian Gastronomic Clubs are found across the city and are a private, member-owned culinary club where groups of friends or family gather to cook and eat together. Sometimes held after hours in restaurants or at dedicated premises, members take turns cooking, often rotating the role of "chef" among the group. They usually bring their own ingredients, though basic staples are kept in the pantry. After the meal, the total expense (including the cost of ingredients, pantry items, and a small fee for using the facilities) is calculated and split equally among everyone present, regardless of what each person ate or drank

There's an informal approach to this meal, and on this occasion there were already chefs working in the kitchen who had been asked to prepare our meal. In that case, our host Jon simply had to bring some of the main ingredients to the site earlier in the day. Its then usually left to the chef to decide which dishes to prepare, although obviously you can request certain specialities. You don't have to worry about clearing the plates or washing the dishes, which is another bonus!

As a foodie destination, I think San Sebastian is hard to beat. The mix of fancy dining alongside authentic dishes consumed by locals is a fascinating success story.

If you thought San Sebastian was just Basque cheesecakes and pintxos, it will only take a few days sampling the delights the city has to offer to think again.