A Weekend in the Suburbs of Paris

You can only talk about the benefits of taking the train to Paris from London for so long before people suspect you are on the payroll. I promise you, I'm not, but like many people who have taken the sub-three hour trip on Eurostar I'm a confirmed advocate for the route. As usual Gard du Nord is a frenetic arrival point where you need to keep your wits about you. You can jump on the Metro and get to anywhere in Paris from the busy station, and even go further afield too. That proved to be useful this time around because I was about to leave the well-defined numbered arrondissements of the city and head to the nine towns of Plaine Commune in the suburbs.

For practicality, comfort and a little touch of French exuberance in this part of Paris, you won't find a better spot than H4 Wyndham Paris Pleyel. An architectural landmark soaring above Saint-Denis, the historical heritage here leans into musical origins and blends with contemporary design. Almost 700 rooms and suites offer striking panoramas of the Parisian skyline and allow easy access to the iconic national stadium nearby. On the 40th-floor the panoramic Skybar is where cocktails are served against a breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower.

Ideally located just steps away from the Carrefour Pleyel (Line 13) and Saint-Denis Pleyel (Line 14) stations, the hotel is seen as a gateway to the heart of Paris, the Louvre Museum, and the iconic Grand Magasins. For those flying in, H4 Wyndham Paris Pleyel is conveniently located 20 km from Paris-Orly Airport (ORY) and 23 kms from Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG). The property sits on the historic site of the legendary Pleyel Piano Factory and the hotel pays homage to this heritage through subtle room designs and by naming its ground-floor French restaurant Le Pleyel and its buffet breakfast Chopin.

With this base of operations established, I still had a few days to explore Paris from this fresh angle. I knew I would be heading to the centre at some point but also wanted to see what I could experience in the immediate area.

Centred around historic Saint-Denis, this area offers a dose of something different compared to central Paris. There is an immediate lack of high-rise buildings, my hotel being the obvious exception, and the wide avenues are as likely to be lined by trees as they are stone buildings. That said, stonework and masonry are not to be ignored here, something I would see firsthand on a trip to The Cathedral Basilica of Saint-Denis. This gothic necropolis of the kings and queens of France is regarded as one of the best examples of period architecture and is an accessible pathway to the past for everyday Parisians.

Founded in the 5th century over the tomb of Saint-Denis, the building revolutionised architecture by introducing ribbed vaults and omnipresent light, becoming one of the first Gothic masterpieces. At 108 metres long and 29 metres high, its luminous transept features two 12-metre rose windows inspired by those in Notre-Dame de Paris. As you might have noticed, however, the Basilica is currently without one of its spires. Its been that way for nearly 200 years as in 1837 lightning struck the north spire of the basilica and it had to be dismantled. Efforts are currently underway to repair this, and a small museum dedicated to ongoing development not only showcases the planned finish but also allows you the chance to see rebuilding work first hand. I can even say I carved a little part of the stonework that will be lifted into place soon.

Stone-carving or blacksmithing workshops can be booked in advance through the POP tourism office and I recommend doing a guided tour to get your bearings. Its a vast space with incredible stories pretty much everywhere you look.

This history is also evident when you visit Maison d’éducation de la Légion d’Honneur (The Legion of Honor’s House of Education). Founded by Napoleon in 1805, the school has a unique mission to educate the daughters, granddaughters, and great-granddaughters of members of the Legion of Honour, the Order of National Merit, and recipients of the Military Medal. The school is housed within the stunning, historic cloisters of the basilica.

The maze-like Saint-Ouen flea market is the world's largest antiques market and draws around 5 million visitors every year. You'll find unique pieces alongside swathes of pop art memorabilia and pretty much everything in between. In the age of online bargain hunting you won't find many 'cheap' items here, but the vast number of stalls and some of the high end pieces are genuinely only available here. Its easy to get lost, and that's fine if you have the time, but otherwise be sure to go with someone who knows their way around the venue. Affectionately known as the world's attic, you can visit from Saturday through to Monday evening every week.

Officially launching in 2016, Street Art Avenue runs from La Villette to the Stade de France, along the Canal Saint-Denis. You'll find more than 50 monumental frescos in various styles including the classic American graffiti most of us recognise. With plenty of space to grow, if you're feeling creative yourself you can even join in and create your own masterpiece... with the help of an expert obviously. Get tagging and spraying on your next trip to Paris!

As if to fully differentiate itself from the Paris I know - and now begrudgingly love - my final stop was La Villette. This bizarre combination of green spaces, modern architecture and fun family hangouts is completely unexpected given the city its in. The Symphony Hall is a standout building but I was just as taken by the cinemas and smaller venues here too.

You'll find outstanding cuisine in every corner of Paris, and if you want you can stay local with options like the rustic authenticity of Grand Breton or Ventrus which is in Parc de la Villette. However, I still wanted to explore a bit more of the city I remembered from earlier trips so it was off to Montmatre for a sublime walking food tour. Paris A Dream can curate their excursions to your tastes and I was in the mood for something sweet. We ventured through the Pigalle district and started off with hot chocolate at Maison Souquet.

It was great to find out more about this area which has been popularised in art for centuries, and I can only hope the same happens to trendy Plaine Commune too.