The Secret Villages and Hidden Charms of Haute-Savoie

Flying to Geneva from London is always a pleasant surprise. Its a short hop over the peaks of Switzerland and France, with the flightpath showcasing the natural beauty of this part of Europe. I always try to get a window seat whenever I make this trip, with the view eliciting a sense of wonder every time. Usually onward journeys can take hours if you're leaving the city behind for the mountains, but this time I was crossing the border to France and within 45 minutes I was climbing tight winding roads to Haute-Savoie.

Following a quick lunch stop at Chez Gigi on Plateau de Solaison, where the Alpine views were more breathtaking than the cold fresh air, I was off to my first small village. As we drove to Praz-de-Lys-Sommand I spotted signposts indicating a challenging bike climb that will feature in the Tour de France in 2026. It was good to see that other seasons throughout the year were a big part of the events calendar in Haute-Savoie, and the point of my trip was to see what else you can do here besides the more obvious winter pursuits.

The roads here are easy to navigate, even for newcomers. The narrow portions on the mountains are well maintained and local drivers are used to making sure everyone stays safe on tricky corners. The majority of any drive between villages is in the open basins and valleys with the only real distraction being the spectacular mountains. Sunsets can be especially captivating, so make sure you nab a great spot to take it all in. I arrived in Praz-de-Lys-Sommand quite late so only really appreciated the location when I woke up early on the next morning.

Confident skiers will want to head up to the slopes as soon as possible, but as a relative novice I was going to head out on snowshoes. You can also try fat biking, dog sledding and even wingjumping - skiing with a wingsuit for extra height when going over bumps - but I was okay trying something a little more grounded. As a low impact activity, snowshoeing is suitable for all ages and those with a basic level of fitness.

Les Carroz on the Grand Massif ski area is a large resort that grew from humble farming origins. The first ski lift opened over Christmas in 1938 and was the longest one brought into service at the time. There are some fantastic properties here, and I'd suggest this as a great spot if you want to fully embrace the Alpine way of life in luxury. Cosy log fires and indoor jacuzzis can be found in the higher end hotels off the slopes and summer is also a fun time of year to visit. Aquacîme is a swimming centre that includes sauna and wellbeing facilities, with indoor and outdoor pools. These are heated in winter and give you a chance to relax and recuperate. The Alpine Coaster is a family friendly activity which I desperately want to try when I return on my next trip here and the warmer months look like they bring a completely different vibe.

This is a famous ski area and I was about to try my hand at the beginner green and blue runs. The wide spaces are great for learners and with a little training you can head to the higher points of the resort where there are also excellent dining options. This was one of the only times when I completed a morning of skiing and wanted to continue into the afternoon! It helps that my accommodation for my time in Les Carroz was milkhotel, which overlooks a descent I could see from my room. The onsite restaurant serves authentic French cuisine with a typically Alpine twist, so expect hearty meat and vegetable combinations and plenty of local cheese.

If skiing had me slightly nervous then my final activity of this whistle stop tour had me on absolute edge. Praz-sur-Arly was the last village on my itinerary and things started off wonderfully with dinner at Les Ronins. A short walk from l’hôtel La Griyotire, the restaurant is named after two 'masterless' chefs who struck out on their own following a stint at one of the most successful eateries in the region. The food here is on the innovative end of the spectrum, with fresh local produce again featuring heavily.

My visit here was timed to coincide with Montgolfiades de Praz-sur-Arly - an annual hot air ballon festival that runs over a week in mid January. As you can imagine, the weather and temperature play a factor on whether these contraptions can take off or not, but they also contribute to the unforgettable experience when it all goes to plan. The take off zone is just opposite the hotel, so you don't have to go too far for the safety briefing but once you're up in the air you could end up anywhere!

Once you sign up for the event you'll meet your team who will guide you through the rest of the experience. I was flying with Lisa Picot, an experienced pilot with Forez Montgolfiere, and her crew. As we reached the departure point, dozens of balloons were being inflated for the morning but we had to wait for the all clear from the lead pilot who would go up first to gauge if the wind conditions were suitable. If was a beautiful morning otherwise, but we still had to listen out for the 'tres bien' call over the radio. It was with a mixture of delight and dread that I greeted the "good" news. We were going up!

The quiet town was waking up below us as we ascended into the sunlight to get even better views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding mountains around us. Once the furious blasts of hot air to initially get you off the ground subside, a feeling of calm envelops the suspended basket below the bulbous canvas above. It feels precarious at first, with wind-induced swaying motions more pronounced the lower you are, but it dampens down at altitude. The ground crew are tasked with following you as best they can so that there is someone ready to pick you up when you land, but for now all I had to do was look out over the side and drink in the ridiculous sight below me.

This was an obvious career travel highlight for me, but to be honest my entire time in Haute-Savoie exceeded my own lofty expectations. This is a great location only a few hours from home, but one worth visiting at any time of the year. I'll be back in the summer and at this rate I'll also probably be back next winter too!