The restaurant was opened 1879 in the Brooklyn on Fulton Street. It reopened in its present location on Fulton Street in 1892 with a Neo-Greco front and ornate interior characteristic of the late Victorian Era. fast-forward to 1973 John Simmons joins Ed Dewry in the ownership and management of the restaurant. John Simmons is a very close friend who now lives in Oregon. I also know the last owned Joe Chirico who closed the restaurant in 1995.
I first went to Gage & Tollner in the early 1970’s when I lived in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn and later when I lived in Park Slope, Brooklyn when Edna Louis, a groundbreaking chef, was there. Michele and I have fond memories of it and felt we had a connection to the restaurant. The restaurant had existed for many years, but closed in the early 2000’s. The interior has landmark status, a rarity in this city, and recently reopened with a whole new owner and management team. We made a date to meet friends there for dinner. We were happy to see that the restaurant allows you to bring your own wines with a reasonable corkage fee.
We started with Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV Made from 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It has tiny bubbles, a fruity delicate freshness with hints of citrus fruit, ginger and a touch of brioche.
Chicken Pate — a delicate mousse-like pate with raisins and walnuts, served with warm toast. This was one of several appetizers that we shared.
Cornmeal Fritters
Corn pudding
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998. Fabiano made from 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella and 5% Croatian. The vineyards are at 190/370 meters and the soil is red compact with clay, rich in skeleton deposits and marly clay. The training system is Pergola Veronese in terraces contained by stone walls (marogne). Harvest is manual. The grapes are soft pressed and partially destemmed, then dried for about 4 months according to the traditional drying method. In the second half of January the grapes are gently pressed and destemmed. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for about 50 days after 30 days maceration on the skins. The wine is aged in 40HL oak barrels for 30 months and 3 months in bottle before release. This is a complex full bodied wine but also soft and balanced with deep dark fruit, prunes, plums a touch of chocolate, a note of spiced and a hint of cherry. Very traditional and a good food wine. Residual sugar g/4.6.
The French Fries were excellent, light, crisp and not greasy
Pork Shoulder Rib Roast for two was juicy and perfectly roasted, topped with cherry mostarda.
Welcome back, Gage & Tollner! We loved being back, our meal was terrific, and we will be back again soon.
We started with Prosecco Superiore DOCG 2018 Valdobbiadine Brut Natural Silvano Follador Made from 100% Glera. The soil is marl and clay. Organic and biodynamic farming methods but do not have certification. Dosage 0. Residual sugar 0.0% The wine is refined in cement vats for 6 months The wine has hints of apple, pear, white peach and apricot. I was very impressed by this Prosecco.
Crunchy fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies–one of my favorites
A salad made with corn and shards of fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Vacqueyras Blanc Le Jardin de Noemie Vallis Petra Made from Viognier 40% Roussanne, 15% Marsanne, 15% Bouboulenc 30% The vineyard consists of two hectares and the vines are 30 years old. Organically farmed. The grapes are destemmed and pressed and fermentation takes place at a low temperature. The wine is vinified in 225 liter barrels for 9 months. The wine has hints of almonds, white flowers, pear, apricot, spice and a note of vanilla. This wine was brought back from Provence and it was a first for me.
Fresh grilled tuna ready to be served
The bread- Nat always surprises us with wonderful bread
On the plate
Marie’s Blueberry Tart–another one of my favorites.
Blueberry Tart with vanilla ice cream
We started with Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV Made from 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It has tiny bubbles, a fruity delicate freshness with hints of citrus fruit, ginger and a touch of brioche. It has become one of my favorite champagnes.
Prosciutto and Figs
Crozes-Hermitage 2016 Ferraton Père & Fils made from 100% Syrah. The soil has terraces of glacial alluvial deposits with a lot of round pebbles, stones and gravel in the districts of Mercurol and Beaumont-Morteaux. The grapes are destemmed and lasts maceration for about 20 days. Extraction is by pumping over and punching down. The wine remains in vats for 12 months before bottling. The wine has hints of red fruits, with raspberries, cassis, blackcurrants and a touch of leather.
Grilled Loin of Lamb
Sliced Lamb with grilled eggplant
Grilled Eggplant
Roasted Tiny Potatoes
Tomato, Cucumber and Bread Salad
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2016 Mas De Boislauzon made from 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre. This is a full bodied and fresh wine with hints of black cherry, blackberries, licorice and lavender. It will last for another 10 years at least.
On the plate
Dessert was a light and creamy cheesecake with marinated berries
Champagne Nathalie Falmet Brut NV “Le Val Cornet made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from a single vineyard in the Côte Des Bar. The soil is Kimmeridian marl covered with Portland limestone. The champagne has hints of apricot, pear, apple and a note of almond.
Champagne Vilmart & C. “Grand Cellier” made from 70% Chardonnay and 30%Pinot Noir. Aging for ten months in used oak casks prior to blending for the second fermentation. The wine spends two years on the lees before disgorgment. It has hints of pear, apple, a touch of
Butterflied leg of lamb on the grill
Grilled leg of lamb ready to be served
Potato and Scallion Salad
Green beans
Brunello di Montalcino 1999 Lisini made from 100% Sangiovese. The are 3,300 plants per hectare in the old vineyard and 5, 400 plants in the newer vineyard at 300 to 350 meters. The grapes are hand harvested and a selection takes place. Fermentation and maceration is in stainless steel with skin contact for 20 t0 26 days. Aging is in large Slavonian oak barrels of 20 to 50 ha for 42 months. The wine is aged another 6 to 8 months in bottle before release. This is a traditional Brunello with hints of red and black fruit, blueberries and rasperries and a touch of violet. It was drinking extremely well.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999 Poggio Antico made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at about 480 meters with a south/southwest exposure and are among the highest in the zone. The soil is rocky and calcerous with good drainage. 
Both black and green figs poached in a spiced compote
Spiced Fig Compote served with Almond Pound Cake was an excellent finale.
Mortadella,
Arancini
Prosciutto and melon
Asparagus with balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil
Roasted Sweet Peppers
Chianti Classico Riserva Villa Antinori Riserva 1980 L&P Antinori the wine is mostly Sangiovese with some Cannaiolo and a very small amount of Trebbiano. Some of the wine was aged in 225 liter barrels. The wine has hints of sour cherries, leather, herbs and a note of violets. It had a low shoulder but was still drinking very well.
Barbera D’Asti “Scarpa” 2010 Antica Vinicola Casa Scarpa made from 100% Barbera from Monferrato. The vineyard is at 400 meters and the soil is clay. The vines were planted in 2000 and the training system is guyot. Harvest is by hand.
Ravioli stuffed with Four Cheeses from Eataly.
With Buffalo ricotta on top
Fettuccine with Fresh Tomatoes and Ricotta
On the plate
Pasta Amatriciana
Figs — New Jersey grown by a friend.
Deb’s Homemade Chocolate Cake and Ice cream — One of the best chocolate cakes I have had in years.
Charles Scicolone on Wine