Monthly Archives: April 2024

April 29, 2024 · 1:18 am

Petrolo Winery at Restaurant Felice 83

I-italy-tv aired on NYC Live channel 25 in New York for several years.  For part of that time, Michele and I were assigned the task of visiting Italian restaurants and interviewing the chefs.  One of the restaurants where we taped the show was Felice on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.  Today there are several Felice locations across Manhattan, Brooklyn, Long Island and Florida but at that time that was the only one. The Felice Restaurants are a part of the SA Hospitality Group and an extension of Fattoria Sardi Winery from Lucca in Tuscany. 

Recently we were invited by Christian Tripodi, the Sommelier at Saint Ambroeus, to attend a dinner at Felice 83 featuring the wines of Petrolo. We were greeted by the wine director, Christian Ferrulli, who I have known for a number of years.

The speaker was Luca Sanjust from the winery.  He runs the Petrolo Estate of the historic Bazzocchi-Sanjust family.

The Petrolo Estate is located in Tuscany at the site of what was originally a small medieval town called Galatrona.  A stone tower from this period (itself built on foundations dating back to the Roman era) still exists on the property.

Petrolo Winery is owned by 4 generations by the Bazzocchi-Sanjust Family. The estate extends over 109 acres, 825 to 1,500 feet above sea level, in an area known for prestigious wines since the Renaissance.

The vineyards are set in Val d’Arno Superiore, among the hills of the “Chianti Colli Aretini,” bordering southeastern Chianti Classico. The somewhat loosely packed soil in the area features layers of clay stone, shale and limestone.

Since 2004 they have been abandoning traditional farming methods and practicing natural and sustainable solutions: dry farming and no fertilization, no tillage, total grassing with mulch management, and no use of synthetic pesticides. In 2016 the winery obtained official Organic Certification.

The dinner started with Taglieri di Formaggio: herbed goat cheese, pecorino, and manchego with fruit along with a crostone topped with burrata and zucchini.

Petrolo Bòggina B 2021 IGT Toscana Trebbiano produced from plants of Tuscan Trebbiano selected in Valdarno and planted in the ‘70s at Petrolo in the “Poggio” vineyard. They have been recently replanted below the Bòggina vineyard using the same original clones. Manual harvest in crates. Grape selection with sorting table. Natural vinification with native yeasts in tonneaux. The wine ages on the sur lies for over 15 months in special selected French oak tonneaux. The constant batonnage the wine receives during the first months is then gradually decreased. The wine is never racked until bottling.The wine has hints of citrus fruit, lemon, orange blossom with a touch of honey, a note of spicy herbs and a steel quality.

Melanzane alla Parmigiana: Eggplant Parmigiano

Petrolo Bòggina A ( Anfora) 2021 Val d’Arno di Sopra DOC – Vigna Bòggina, Sangiovese. Estate produced and bottled. Made from 100% Sangiovese, certified  organic. Vinification is made in terracotta amphorae of 300 and 500 liters from a meticulous selection of the best grapes of the Bòggina vineyard harvested by hand and further selected with a sorting table. Almost no sulfites are added.  Natural fermentation is carried out with native yeast and manual “cap” plungings. As fermentation ends, the amphorae are sealed with the skins for about an 8-month long maceration. After the skins’ removal, the wine will continue its aging in amphorae for another 6 months. Amphorae allow a similar microxygenation as barriques, avoiding reduction excesses but preventing barrique flavoring. The wine is naturally protected thanks to the extended contact with the skins without the use of sulphites. The wine has hints of dried cherries, red plum, strawberry, blood orange and a hint of pepper. 

Lasagnette al Ragu di Vitello: Lasagna with a rich veal ragù, bechamel sauce and Parmigiano-Reggiano followed.

Bòggina C Val d’Arno di Sopra DOC-Vigna Bòggina, Sangiovese Estates produced and bottled,100% Sangiovese organic.  Manual harvest in crates. Grape selection with sorting table. Natural vinification with native yeasts in glazed concrete vats. Soft and frequent manual pumping overs. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation in wood. For about 16/18 months in rigorously selected French oak 22 Hl barrels and 7 Hl tonneaux. The wine has ripe fruit aromas and flavors with hints of black cherry, plum, lavender, and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of espresso.

Torrione Val d’Arno di Spora DOC Pierraviva. Estate produced and bottled made from 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sangiovese. Hand harvest and grape selection with sorting table.   Torrione is made from the Sangiovese grapes coming from the winery’s historical vineyards of the 70’s and from more recent ones. Vineyards were planted following meticulous zoning that enabled the owners to identify the most suitable rootstocks and the optimal plant density. The yield per plant is very limited (max 1Kg per plant) allowing the concentration of all the noble components of the grape fundamental to the great structure, elegance and balance wanted for this wine. Vinification is with all native yeasts in glazed concrete vats. Soft and frequent manual pumping overs. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation in wood. Maturation in concrete tanks, French oak 40Hl barrels, tonneaux and barriques for 15/18 months. This is a complex and structured wine with hints of blueberries, blackberries, dark cherry with a hint of tobacco and a touch of spice.

Luca said Petrolo is the beginning of the winery’s new approach to winemaking aiming to produce wines of the highest quality. Torrione is the “chateau” of Petrolo, a blend of the grapes of all the vineyards of Petrolo: not only Sangiovese from Bòggina but also from other historical vineyards of Petrolo, including Merlot from Galatrona and Cabernet Sauvignon from Campo Lusso. A perfect example of a balanced, clear and deep red. A wine that tells, better than any other, the true identity of our territory.

Peposo con Polenta Cremosa: Beef stew cooked in red wine with black peppercorns served with creamy polenta

Petrolo Galatrona 2021 Val d.Arno di Sour DOC ORGANIC made from 100% Merlot. Luca said this “Grand Cru” of Merlot is only made with the grapes from the vineyard of the same name planted between the end of the 80’s and half of the 90’s with low vigor bordeaux clones. The soil is rich in clay, with schist, marl and sandstone. There are 5,500 plants per hectare. Manual harvest in crates and further grape selection with sorting table. Natural vinification with native yeasts in cement vats. Manual soft and frequent pumping overs. There is spontaneous malolactic fermentation in wood. Maturation in French oak barriques, a third new, for about 18 – 20 months. Constant batonnage of the fine lees for the first 6 months. This is a full bodied aromatic wine with hints of blackberries, black cherry, violets, licorice and a touch of chocolate and a hint of smokey oak. $98

Petrolo Galatrona 2011 This wine was much more developed than the 2021. howing no signs of age and it was the wine of the evening for me. $ 100

Dinner ended on a sweet and satisfying note with an individual Tortino al Cioccolato con Sorbetto al Lampone: a warm chocolate cake served with raspberry sorbet.

Felice 83  (212) 249 4080 – felice83@felicerestaurants.com 1593 1st Avv at 83 St.

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April 18, 2024 · 2:20 am

Càduferrà Wines from Liguria

Federica Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com) organized a wine tasting and dinner when I was in Rome recently with wines from four wineries. Last week I reported on the wines of Tenuta Rottensteiner with Hannes Rottensteiner. Here is my report on the wines of Càduferrà, represented by Davide Zoppi and his husband, Giuseppe Luciano Aieta.

Davide and Giuseppi

The Càduferrà Winery started more than 30 years ago when Antonio Zoppi, originally from Bonassolo met and married Aida Forgione from Campania.  Aida, named for the opera by Giuseppe Verdi, is a winemaker and the young couple  decided to quit their jobs and move to Bonassolo on the Ligurian Coast and  produce wine. Over the years they bought farmhouses and land in the surrounding area, including the Cinque Terre, and began to plant vines. In 2000, they named their winery Càduferrà, a dialect expression meaning “blacksmith’s house” because the rows of vines now cover an area where horses were shoed in the past.

Davide, their son, and Giuseppe recently joined his parents in operating the property. Their plan is to look toward the future with an eye on the past. Together they turned the property into an agriturismo or holiday farm to attract tourism and modernized the winery.

Davide said their pride is the recovery of rare and ancient vines as a way of returning to the past and respecting the place as it originally was. To rediscover the original viticultural crops, in its Bonassola soils, they aim to bring back varieties such as Ruzzese, Rossese Bianco, Picabon and Albarola Kihlgren, which have been present in the Cinque Terre and the eastern coast of Liguria since ancient times, but have been partially forgotten throughout recent history.

Càduferrà is located between the Golfo deli Poeti and the Gulf del Tigullio, 35 km from La Spezia and 50 km from Genoa.

The Vines and Wines

There are 4.5 seaside hectares divided into 11 tiny vineyard sites and crus. The vine rows are pergola trained and look out on the sea.  Unlike most other wineries, all of the vineyards are multi-varietal with the white Albarolo, Vermentino and Bosco  grown together and the red Sangiovese, Merlot, Ciliegiolo, Syrah and Granaccia as well as the rare Vermentino Nero grown together. The vineyards are certified organic and the oenologist is internationally reknowned Graziana Grassini.

Colline Di Levanto Bianco DOP “Bonazolae” 2002 made from Vermentino, Albarola and Bosco grown on the Bonassola hills on the Ligurian coast. Some of the soil is rich in clay, of medium texture and some soil is lean and rich in sandstone skelton. After a short skin maceration the must obtained from the direct pressing of the grapes is decanted and only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.  The wine remains on the lees with repeated bâtonnage. The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays the year after the harvest. The wine has hints of jasmine, citrus, tropical fruit and floral notes.

Colline di Levanto Vermentino 2022 “Luccicante” made from 100% Vermentino. Various and characteristic soils with a clay composition, medium textured, originating from the tectonic uplift of marine terraces. After a short skin maceration the must obtained from the direct pressing of the grapes is decanted  and only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine remains on the lees with repeated bâtonnage The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays, the year after the harvest. The wine has hits of chamomile, white peaches, apples, white flowers, almonds and citrus notes.

Liguria di Levante DOP Magia di Rosa 2022 made from Sangiovese, Vermentino and Syrah. The soil is various and characteristic, mostly clayey with a medium mixture. After a short maceration, the must obtained from direct pressing of the grapes is decanted, only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays, the year after the harvest. The wine has hints of strawberry, raspberry, white peach and a hint of jasmine.

Colline Di Levanto Rosso “ ‘Ngilù” 2022 made from Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Grenache, Vermentino Nero and Syrah.  Soil is various and characteristic, mostly clay with a medium mixture. Alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. After removing the must from the wine, the fermentation process continues in the same stainless steel vats. The wine is aged in stainless steel vats for a minimum of 6 months. The wine has hints of pomegranate, raspberry. red cherry and a hint of strawberry. This is the first time I have tried a wine with Vermentino Nero!

Davide’s passion for his winery really shows through and I was impressed by all his wines.  I particularly enjoyed tasting some of the lesser-known varieties.

Caduferra also makes Liguria di Levante Passito Bianco l’ Intraprendente  made from Bosco, Vermentino and Albarola and a Liguria di  Levante Passito Bianco Ruzzese.

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April 11, 2024 · 2:42 am

Rottensteiner: Winemaking on the Red Stone

When Michele and I were in Rome, Federica Schir <federica@federicaschir-pr.com> arranged a tasting and dinner at a very famous restaurant, Alfredo Alla Scrofa.  The restaurant is one of two Roman restaurants that claim to be the originators of fettuccine Alfredo, a rich plate of eggy fresh fettuccine pasta tossed with butter and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.  In this country, cream is often added to the dish, but its an absolute no-no at Alfredo’s.  To go with our meal, there were  wines from four different producers:  Tenuta Rottensteiner (Bolzano), Càduferrà (Liguria) Rizzini (Franciacorta) and Vallarom(Trentino).  It was quite a feast.

Here is my report on the Tenuta Rottensteiner wines.

Federica introduced Hannes Rottensteiner from Tenuta Hans Rottensteiner. Hannes  is the  winemaker and jointly conducts the affairs of the winery with his father Anton (Toni) with the help of other members of the family. Hannes’ wife Judith takes care of sales and marketing and two of his sisters, Eli and Silvia, supply grapes to the winery.

Hannes said there are documents that confirm there were vines planted on Rottensteiner land in 1527. The modern story begins however in 1956 when Hans Rottensteiner, Hannes grandfather founded the winery that bears his name.

They not only use grapes from the family’s 10 hectares but also grapes from 50 regional grape growers and make 16 different varieties of white and red wine.

Hannes told us that his family is one of the oldest wine-growing families in South Tyrol. Their winemaking history began many generations ago in this area where the vines grow on porphyry, the red rock typical of this region. Their surname is also the namesake of the red rock.

Bolzano lies on a giant porphyry slab. This red rock is clearly visible all around the city and significantly influences the mineral character of the wine produced here.

The wines

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Weissburgunder Pinot Bianco “Carnol” 2023 made from 100% Pinot Bianco. The training system is guyot and the soils sandy, loamy, wand porphyry. The “Carnol” takes the name of Hannes father, Toni Rottensteiner’s, birthplace. The grapes come from the best Pinot Blanc vineyards around Bolzano grown on very mineral soils. Hannes said this origin and careful work in the vineyard give the wine all the characteristics which make the Pinot Blanc so special. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, apples, peach a touch of spice and a hint of white flowers.

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Pinot Grigio 2023 made from 100% Pinot Gris. The soil is gravel. slightly loamy and porphyry. The training system is pergola and guyot. Vinification is in steel tanks. After fermentation the wine ages in steel tanks.  Hannes said, “Our Pinot Grigio grows in Branzollo and Frangarto, two villages in the South of Bolzano, one in the valley, the other one on a slight slope, at an altitude of 250 – 300 meters. Another part comes from S. Giacomo in Sabbia next to Bolzano at 450 meters and from Auna di Sotto at 600 meters. In this way, we have a full-bodied, structured, but also minerally and elegant wine.” The wine has notes of citrus fruit, peach, pear, light spice and a touch of banana.

Hannes said that although the Pinot Grigio is a relative of the Pinot Bianco, the wines quite different – not only because of the copper-colored berries of the Pinot Grigio, but also because of the characteristics of the wines. The Pinot Grigio is more complex, with more intense color and notes of banana, vanilla and spices.

Südtirol-Alto Adige Schiava made from 100% Schiava from the Nussbaumer estate in Mission near Bolzano. Sandy and sedimentary soil and the training system is the pergola. Vinification is in stainless steel. After fermentation the wine matures in stainless steel tanks. This is a light and easy wine to drink and can accompany many different foods. It is wine that should be drunk young. It has hints of strawberry and raspberry, violets, cherry and a hint of almonds.

S��dtirol-Alto Adige DOC Santa Maddalena Classico “Vigna Premstallerhof” 2023 made from 93% Schiava and 7% Lagrein. The Premstallerhof estate, located in Santa Maddalena at 400 to 500 meters above sea level and with approximately four hectares, is not only one of the largest, but also one of the best estates in the area. It has been owned by the family Vogel since 1962. They are Swiss wine importers, who turned a dream into reality in buying a vineyard in the St. Magdalena area. Gertrud Vogel directly cultivates the vineyard according to the biodynamical philosophy. The South-East exposure, together with the excellent topographic conditions and the loose porphyry soil, make for one of the best DOC St. Magdalener, the Premstallerhof. Fermentation is in steel tanks and the wine matures in concrete and large wooden barrels. Hannes said St. Magdalener is one of the most famous wines of South Tyrol. Traditionally, the two varieties Schiava and Lagrein are planted together in the same vineyard. The wine has great length with hints of violets, cherries and a slight bitter almond finish.

Select Pinot Noir Riserva 2020 made from 100% Pinot Noir from the Nussbaumerhof estate in Mission (Appiano). The soil is sandy porphyry and the training system is guyot. This Pinot Noir comes from the best Pinot Noir vineyards in Bolzano. Abundant sun during the day, cool nights, good aeration, great attention during yield control and in the management of the microclimate in the vineyard. The wine spends 12 months in barriques the wine has hints of . cherry, raspberry  spice, vanilla a hint of mushroom.

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Select Lagrein Gries Riserva  2021 made from 100% Lagrein which grows in three vineyards in the center of Bolzano Gries where there are deep sedimentary soils with more than 30 year-old grapevines.  The training system is guyot.  Vinification is in French barriques. This is a full bodied red wine hints of violets, chocolate, blackberries and a touch of tobacco. Hannes said the tradition and modernity of the Rottensteiner family finds its clearest expression in this wine.

We enjoyed meeting Hannes and tasting all of his wines.  Next week, more about our dinner and the other wines we tasted.

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April 4, 2024 · 1:50 am

Visiting Tenuta Casenuove

When Federica Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com) heard that Michele and I were in Rome a few weeks ago, she invited us to meet her at Tenuta Casenuove in the Chianti Classico Zone. We took the train from Rome to Florence and met Federica at the station. The winery is located in the heart of Tuscany near the town of Panzano, between Florence and Siena.

At the winery we met Alessandro Fonseca, an agronomist who is the General Manager and Wine Director of the estate. He told us that the history of the property goes back to the 1600’s but the modern story begins in 2015 when it was acquired by Philippe Austruy, an entrepreneur, art collector, and wine lover who also owns prestigious wineries in France and Portugal.

The vineyards

He undertook a complete renovation of the estate which comprises 120 hectares of rolling hills.  Vines, woodlands and olive groves coexist in this part of Tuscany celebrated for its biodiversity.  There are 30 hectares of vineyards at about 450 meters which are dedicated to the production of red wine.

Cosimo Casini in the Cellar

Alessandro hired enologist Cosimo Casini to direct all of the vineyards, and cellar master Maria Sole Zoli. Together they are a very talented team.  Cosimo took us on a tour of the vineyards and spoke about the terroir and explained why certain grape varieties were planted in specific soil.  In the cellar he said they produce a very traditional Chianti Classico Classico but use the latest innovative techniques to make the wine.

He pointed to a tank the size of a barrique made of steel, not wood. He said it imparts all of the elements of barriques without adding any wood flavor.

The wines of Tenuta Casenuove

ZIIK Spumante Rosé Charmat Metodo Extra Brut Bio made from 100% Sangiovese. Limestone clay soil of marine origin. The exposure is south/southwest. Harvest takes place the last week of August and the first week of September.  The grapes are harvested manually, according to a rigorous selection from the areas most suited to sparkling wine. Once in the cellar the grapes are crushed by soft pressing and constantly monitored with several tastings to understand the exact moment of the end of the pressing. This is to guarantee only the best, most delicate, fresh and aromatic part of the pressing, free from vegetable astringencies and excessive hardness. This is followed by a cold static decantation of the grape must obtained without the use of any additives.  After that, alcoholic fermentation takes place in a controlled temperature steel tank, respecting all the organic production protocols. The wine is bottled in March the year following the harvest after 4 months on the lees.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020 made from 90% Sangiovese, 6% Cannaiolo and 4% Merlot. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay dating back to the Cretaceous Oligocene era with the presence of galestro and sandstone coming from the disintegration of the “Macigno del Chianti” rock. Harvest is the second week of September to the first ten days in October. In the cellar, the bunches are sorted and then the grapes. Vinification is in raw concrete tanks filled by gravity. The grapes are gently placed in the tanks without using mechanical pumps that could damage the grapes.

Cosimo said this step is essential to manage the “whole grape” winemaking and it affects the entire architectural design of the winery and the purchase of sorting machines. Once fermentation has started, pumping over and delestage are carried out during the entire period, up to 25 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing.

The wine is aged 6 to 8 months in a concrete tank and in 45 HL Slavonian oak barrels and 18 months in bottled before it is released. The wine has floral notes with hints of black and red fruit, violets and maraschino cherry.

Cosimo said 2020 was a fairly regular vintage. It was complicated, however, by the lockdown and the restrictions imposed to protect against the Covid-19 epidemic which greatly complicated normal wine management.

Chianti Classico DOC 2019 Riserva made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is a mix of limestone clays of marine origin with the presence of galestro. Vinification is the same as above.  The wine is aged in 25HL Slavonian casks and 500 liter tonneaux of first and second passage for 12 months and in bottle for 24/30 months before release. It has flavors and aromas raspberry and blackberry with balsamic notes, floral hints and pleasant acidity.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2019 Gran Selezione made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay dating back to the Cretaceous Oligocene era with the presence galestro of particular selections from the Sopratorre-Pozzo vineyard. Harvest takes place the first week of October. Once fermentation has started, pumping over and delestage are carried out during the time in the tank up to 30 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing. The wine is aged for 20 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and in bottle for 36 months before release. This is an elegant complex wine with hints of violets, wild berries, cherries, tobacco leaf with a very long finish and pleasing aftertaste. The wine can age for 10 years or more. Cosimo said “this wine is the maximum expression of the Sangiovese from Panzano, a true expression of the terroir of our estate.”

Cosimo said 2019 was a very balanced vintage. There were rains that allowed an excellent water reserve in the soils but did not create problems for fungus diseases.

IGT Toscana 2020 Tenuta Casenuove made from 60% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.  Cosimo said the plot selection was chosen because it is characterized by evident outcrops of galestro, less fertile and suited to quality viticulture.  Harvest is from the middle of September to the first 10 days of October.  Vinification is in vitrified cement tanks at a controlled temperature. Once fermentation has has started pumping over and delestage are carried out for up to 30 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing. The wine is aged for 12 months in cement tanks, large Slavonian oak barrels and barriques for 12 months, then in bottle for 30 months before release. This is a big rich, complex wine, dense and concentrated with ripe black and red fruit, spice snd a touch of mocha. It is a wine with great aging potential and could age for 20 years.

After our tour, we enjoyed a tasting of the wines, followed by dinner with Federica, Alessandro and Cosimo in the dining room of the beautifully decorated main house. Conversation ranged from activities in the Chianti Classico Zone, olive oil production, the delicious food and future plans for Tenuta Casenuove.  We also learned that Alessandro is produces an excellent dessert wine on his own property.

Tenuta Casenuove also produces an excellent extra virgin olive oil which tasted during dinner.

Dinner

   Our dinner began with fettuccine with a sausage ragu made by the chef of Tenuta Casenuove.

Next we had a typical beef stew of the region served with mashed potatoes.  Our meal was matched perfectly with the wines we had previously sampled.

With our dessert, Michele had a glass of port from one of Tenuta Casenuove’s owner’s estates in Portugal, Quinta da Côrte Porto LBV 2016, and I had a very traditional grappa made from Sangiovese.

Dessert was a classic crostata di marmellata filled with homemade jam made with an assortment of berries.

We stayed overnight in one of the lovely appointed rooms in the main building.

We left early the next day and on the way back to Florence I had a chance to reflect on how much I had enjoyed the wines of Tenuta Casenuove and how pleased I was to see them making Chianti Classico wines in the traditional way.

 

 

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