Venegazzú Della Casa and Capo di Stato are wines from Azienda Agricola Loredan Gasparini that have been among my favorites for a long time. I visited the Gasperini Estate some years ago and was impressed by all their wines. When I was invited by Nunzio Cataldo of Panebianco Imports to a tasting of their wine, I was only to happy to attend.
The winery is now owned the Palla Family and the speaker was Lorenzo Palla, Director of the company.
Lorenzo started by describing the terroir. Alta Marca Trevigiana is the hill area of Treviso territory (50 km north of Venice), and it includes Asolo and Montello. Montello is a hill elevation of elliptical shape, 13 km long and 5 km wide. It is constituted of red earth which includes conglomerates of calcareous cobblestones, porphyry and granite kneaded with clay, which is rubble coming from Piave River and the Alps erosion. The highest point is situated 371 meters above sea level. The total extension of the Montello area is about 6000 hectares, divided in 5 different town districts: Crocetta del Montello, Giavera del Montello, Montebelluna, Nervesa della Battaglia, and Volpago del Montello.
Venegazzù is a sub-appellation of Montello DOC. This is the place where the winery was born. Surrounded by vineyards, the splendid Palladian Villa Spineda rises with its beauty and majesty, a XVIII century work of the architect F.M. Preti. There is also a farmhouse with the winery which mainly cultivated with red grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec varietals.
Venegazzù is in the western part of the Montello. Lorenzo said the history of the winery is the story of men. The first of these was Count Piero Loredan Gasparini, a direct descendant of Leonardo Loredan, Doge of Venice, the city’s highest office. The winery was founded around 1950 by the Count who established his residence in the gorgeous Palladian villa. Piero Loredan Gasparini was a charismatic figure who, after making a visit to Bordeaux in France, decided to bring Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, and Malbec to the Montello area in order to produce a new wine that he could tell the whole world about. He turned his dream into reality, to the extent that in the 1960s, it even won over French President Charles De Gaulle.
The winery was bought in 1972 by Giancarlo Palla, Lorenzo’s father. Lorenzo said his family are vine growers and custodians of the history of the Venegazzù di Volpago del Montello zone, a natural oasis 50 km from Venice, a city that has always had a special relationship with the Treviso hills. This area has been historically devoted to the production of fine wines since back in 1590. According to his philosophy of respecting and enhancing the bond between varietals and territory, Giancarlo brought to the zone, which was traditionally linked with red wines, the culture of sparkling wine production. He was the first to realize that the Montello is an extraordinary site not only for full-bodied, long-lived wines, on which he continues to focus, but also for vibrant sparkling wines.
Giancarlo’s last vintage was in 1997. Lorenzo makes the wine the same traditional way as his father, except he has done more to improve the vineyards.
Today they also produce sparkling wines, both Metodo Classico and Prosecco.
We started the tasting with Prosecco.
Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG made from 100% Glera. This original CUVÉE INDIGENE derives from a selection of the best grapes from the old “Belvedere Vineyard” a plot dating back to 1969. The production zone is Venegazzu’, Montello, near Treviso, in the Northeast of Italy; altitude 150-400 mt asl. Red soil, clayey, rich in iron and minerals.
Apart from the characteristics of the grapes used which stem from old Glera clones, another feature of this cuvée is the natural winemaking method used. The grapes are hand-picked. There is a cold maceration and subsequent fermentation in controlled temperature steel tanks. A selection of the yeasts grants top quality vintage after vintage with a very slow second fermentation in autoclave for more than 2 months.
This is a full bodied, rich Prosecco with hints of citrus fruit, lemon, pineapple, apple, peach and a touch of brioche. It is one of the best Prosecco’s I have tasted. $18
Venegazzú Della Casa DOC Montello Venegazzu 2019 /2018 Cabernet Sauvignon 60% is always predominant and combined with a good part of Merlot 25%, and a small amount of Cabernet Franc 10% and Malbec 5%. The vineyards are at 150 to 400 meters and the soil is red, clayey and rich in minerals. Grapes are hand-picked. Maceration with skin contact for 8 days and fermentation in steel tanks for about 10 days at controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation takes place.
The wine is aged for 18 months large 25hl large Slavonian oak barrels before being bottled and placed on the market. The wine drinks like a Bordeaux with hints of black cherry, plum, cassis, tobacco, licorice, herbs, and mushrooms. The wine continues the blending tradition of the Gasparini Estate. When introduced in 1951 it was one of the first Cabernet and Merlot blends in Italy.
This is a wine that can age and a real bargain for the price at $25. Lorenzo said 2018 was a good vintage and 2019 was an excellent one.
Capo di Stato DOC Montello Venegazzu’ Superiore Riserva della Casa 2019, 2018, 2012, 2006 and 1997. Capo di Stato starts life in a selection of grapes, from the historic “100 plants” vineyard. This vineyard is located in Venegazzù 40km north of Venice in the province of Treviso, where the Montello terroir confers its unique character. The grapes are from two vineyards, the original or mother vineyard planted in 1940, and a second vineyard planted in 1990 using a selected clone of the mother vineyard.
The grape varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec from old clones. Lorenzo said the blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. It changes from year to year depending on the vintage. The vineyard is at 90 to 120 meters and the soil is red, clayey, rich in iron and minerals. The grapes are hand harvested. Maceration on the skins with fermentation in oak vats at a partially controlled temperature with complete maceration. The wine is aged in large oak barrels 25 hl and new French oak barriques for 30 months. The wine remains in bottle for 12 months before release. This is a full bodied, complex and balanced wine that has deep aromas of very ripe fruit, blackberry, blueberry, black currents, hazelnuts and sweet spices with a touch of licorice. It has a pleasing aftertaste and a long finish. This is a wine that needs a lot of the time. The 2012 was showing very well and the 2006 was drinking now but the 1997, the last vintage of Lorenzo’s father, was my favorite. Current vintage about $60.
Note: Count Loredan, after several years of production of high quality wines, decided to make a special reserve of Venegazzù Red Wine in the 1960s. The focus on quality, limited quantities and special vintages, created a wine that was soon sought after for special regional occasions. The idea that a world-class, local wine could be served at state functions was greatly appreciated in Venice. Among its first fans was the French President Charles de Gaulle, the president of France at the time, who enjoyed it on his 1967 visit. This event gave the wine its name “Head of State” in honor of this success.
Speaking about the label Lorenzo said that in the history of man, wine and art undoubtedly enjoy a sublime bond. In 1967 the famous Italian artist Tono Zancanaro (1906-1985) dedicated two sensual works to the elegant “Riserva” of Count Loredan which express the dual male and female soul. To his mind the “grape” (feminine) becomes “wine” (masculine). The two fused into the same essence. From that moment “Des Roses pour Madame” and “…pour Monsieur la Bombe,” become the art for the label. Later the wine was produced with only the “…pour Monsieur la Bombe” label. The “Des Roses pour Madame” label is only placed on selected bottles for particular occasions.
We also tasted the Loredan Gasparini Metodo Classico Extra Brut Cuvee Indigena DOCG Asolo Prosecco Superiore, about $20. This Prosecco has been rated very high by all the wine media.
Spineda 2020 made from 100% Merlot is named for the Venetian family who in the 1700’s started to enhance the Venegazzù area where this extraordinary Merlot was planted. This is a wine made by Lorenzo who wanted to show what a great wine this Merlot could produce. $140
At the moment, I do not believe these last two wines are imported into the U.S.
Theu also produce a grappa from the vinaccia of the Capo di Stato wine which has become my favorite grappa.
The Della Casa and/or the Capo di Stato would be perfect with the Turkey for Thanksgiving .
Happy Thanksgiving!
Charles Scicolone on Wine