Category Archives: Collio

Tasting Collio Pinot Grigio

On our recent visit to Rome I was contacted by Federica Schir, Head of the Collio Consortium’s Press Office who invited Michele and I to a tasting of Pinot Grigio from Collio. I have enjoyed tasting many fine wines with Federica and it’s always a pleasure to see her again.  Federica said that Lavinia Zamaro, Director of the Collio Consorzio, who I had met on a previous trip to the region would also join us.

Lavinia Zamaro and Federica Schir

The tasting was held at my favorite wine bar in Rome, L’Angolo DiVino.

We tasted 6 Pinot Grigios from the 2024 vintage in the Collio region and discussed them.

Collio is a crescent-shaped sub region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the province of Gorizia enclosed between the Judrio and Isonzo Rivers. It is right up against the Slovenian border. The area consists of a total of 7,000 hectares with a strong biodiversity, of which 1,300 hectares are vineyards. The vines are located in the municipalities of Gorizia, Capriva, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo,  Mossa, San Floriano del Collio and Isonzo San Lorenzo.

The soil, known as Ponca, is made of stratified marl and sandstone of Eocene origin.  It crumbles in the hand revealing tiny fossils. The hills of Collio originate from the rising of the sea bottom. The soil makes wines with characteristic minerality and salinity. These are unique wines from a unique soil which are unmistakable for their taste and aroma. Collio is known for its complex and structured white wines.

Pinot Grigio is derived from the bud mutation of Pinot Noir.  It  takes its name from the gray-pink color of the grape skin. It has a straw-yellow color with fleeting grayish reflections and an intense, distinctive bouquet. Pinot Grigio is an international variety and the most planted white grape in Collio, but has been losing acreage as it has been replaced slowly by Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla.

The 2024 vintage for Collio Pinot Grigio is of high-quality, resulting  in concentrated, aromatic, and structured wines with higher alcohol levels with notes of ripe pear, melon, and citrus with a distinct mineral, salty, finish.

Collio Pinot Grigio MAGNAS Made from 100% Pinot Grigio planted in 1990 in Cormòns and Murzù area. The training system is Guyot and there are 4,500 vines per hectare. There is manual harvesting during the first 10 days of September. A gentle pressing of the grapes is followed by alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature. Aging is on the lees for about six months in stainless steel tanks. The wine was bottled in April. It has a straw-yellow color with fleeting grayish reflections and an intense, distinctive bouquet. Dry on the palate, aromatic, smooth and pleasant, with notes of honey and peach. Soft and long on the finish, with a full character.

Pinot Grigio DOC Collio “Villa Canlungo”  Collavini made from 100% Pinot Grigio from San Floriano del Collio, Gorizia, Cormòns and Mossa. The training system is cordon spur and Guyot and there are 4,500 to 5,000 vines per hectare. Terraced vineyards with southern exposure and “ponca” soils—friable marlstone that retains moisture.  Grapes are hand harvested  in September. There is a short maceration on the skins at a low temperature. Alcoholic fermentation is in temperature controlled  stainless steel vats with natural yeast for about two weeks at a temperature of 14C to 16C. This is an elegant and well balanced wine has hints of citrus fruit, lemon, tangerine, a hint of pear and a touch of apple. Collavini was founded in 1896 and is still family run.

Collio DOC Pinot Grigio Ronco Blanchis made from 100% Pinot Grigio from estate vineyards in Ronco Blanchis, Mossa and Gorizia. The training system is Guyot and there are 4,830 vines per hectare and the average age of the vines is 15 years. The soil is composed of grey and yellowish eocene marl with a meager  amount of sandstone. Harvest is in the middle of September.  There is white wine vinification with a gentle pressing of the whole bunch. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks. This is an elegant, well-structured wine with hints of citrus fruit, Meyer lemon, peach, a touch of pear and a note of flint.

Collio Pinot Grigio Battistutta made from 100% Pinot Grigio from estate vineyards. The grapes are hand harvested the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and after a light maceration the grapes are gently pressed. The must obtained is clarified by natural settling.  Alcoholic fermentation is started with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature.  This is a smooth, elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, pear, apple and floral notes.

Pinot Grigio Ronco Scagnet made from 100% Pinot Grigio from the DOC Collio area. Crushing and destemming of the grapes is followed by a soft pressing.  After  24 hours, the coarser lees  are separated out and then fermentation at a controlled temperature of 18C. Aging is for about 6 months on the fermented lees without racking. The wine has hints of golden delicious apple, melon, citrus fruit and pear.

Coldigrotta Pinot Grigio Ramato (coppery) made from 100% Pinot Grigio located in Farra d’Isonzo (Gorizia). The soil is sandstone of oceanic origin and the training system is espalier guyot. The average age of the vines is 30  years. Manual harvest takes place the first and third week of September. Fermentation with selected yeasts takes place at 18-20C and lasts for 12 days. The wine is certified organic. This  is a copper-hued “orange” wine, dry, complex and well- structured  with hints of cantaloupe melon, quince and cherry wood.

After we tasted the wines, Lavinia told us about an upcoming event called “Collio Evolution 2026: Beyond the Variety—From Soil to Glass: The Identity-driven Essence of Pinot Grigio.” This is the second edition of the Collio Evolution and it returns to Cormons on October 25th to 26. The event will include a technical tasting and walk-around tasting for the press, trade professionals, and opinion leaders.

For more information contact: Presso Office of Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio. Federica Schir PR + 39 389 9425510

info@federicaschir-pr.com-federica@federicaschir-pr.com

 

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Tasting Collio Ribolla Gialla

My  visit to  the Collio region of Friuli Venezia Giulia on a  press trip sponsored by The Consorzio Di Tutela Vini Collio was very informative and interesting.

Among the events was a tasting of 10 Friulano (Tocai) DOC Collio wines and a tasting of 7 examples of Ribolla Gialla DOC Collio.

Ribolla Gialla may be the most ancient grape of Collio (1289).  It may have originated in the Collio/Goriska Brda region.  In the 14th Century, Giovanni Boccaccio wrote in his Decameron that drinking too much Ribolla was one of the sins of gluttony.  But by the late 1980’s, international grapes had pushed Ribolla into the background and very little was produced.  The turn of the century brought a renewed interest in the grape and it now plays a large role in the white wines of Collio.

The tasting of Ribolla Gialla was held at the Humar Winery and as with all the formal tastings, it was conducted by Richard Baudains, an English wine writer.

Nataša Humar was at the tasting and spoke about her wine and Ribolla Gialla in general.

The Wines

Humar Ribolla Gialla DOC Collio 2022.  Made from 100% Ribolla Gialla. The winery is in Valerisce di San Floriano in the heart of Collio. There are 12 hectares of vineyards. The training system is guyot and there are 4,800 plants per hectare. Manual harvest. Traditional white winemaking. Temperature controlled maceration for 24 hours, soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation at a controlled temperature in stainless steel vats where the juice remains until the following spring. The wine remains in the bottle for two months before release. It has hints of apple, peach and lemon with firm acidity. $15  Nataša said Humar is a family-run winery.

Gradis’Ciutta Ribolla Gialla DOC Collio 2022 made from 100% Ribolla Galla from vineyards in Ruttars and Bukova in the southwest side of Mount Calario at 180 meters. The training system is guyot. Traditional white wine vinification. The grapes are cryo-macerated for 24 hours, then pressed and fermented at a controlled temperature. The wine is kept on the lees until it is bottled. The wine has ints of apple, citrus and creamy notes. Organic. $26

Livon Ribolla Gialla Roncato DOC Collio 2022 made from 100% Ribolla Gialla in Ruttars in Dolegno del Collio. The soil is marl and clay. Manual harvest. Cold maceration takes place followed by a cleaning of the must. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature for 8 months and the wine remains in the same container to age for another 8 months on the lees. The wine then remains in the bottle until release. Straw yellow color. Hints of peach, floral notes, citrus, with a hint of fennel and a note of white pepper.$15

Bolzicco Ribolla Gialla DOC Collio 2022 made from 100% Ribolla Gialla. The winery is located in Cormòns at the foot of Mount Quern between Collio and Isonzo areas.  There are 8 hectare of vineyards. Vines were planted in 1987 and the training system is Cappuccino. Harvest takes place from the middle to the end of September. The grapes are pressed and there is a cold decantation for 12 hours. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled  temperature for 12/18 days. The wine is then aged in steel for 10 to 12 months. Straw yellow with green reflections, fruity and floral with hints of apple, strawberry, citron, lime and a balsamic note. $16

Tenuta Stella Ribolla Gialla DOC 2020 made from 100% Ribolla Gialla. The exposure is south/east and the vineyard is at 270 meters. Fermentation at a controlled temperature with indigenous yeasts 90% in stainless steel and 10% maceration on the skins for 15 days in large vats made from French oak. The wine is aged for 10 months in 70% steel and 30% in second passage French oak. The wine has a golden yellow color with hints of apple, peach, spice with floral notes and a touch of vanilla.$20

Colmello Di Grotto Ribolla Gialla DOC Collio 2020 made from 100% Ribolla Gialla with an average age of 15 years in Far d’Isonzo (Gorizia). The soil is marl and sandstone of oceanic origin. The vineyards are at 110 meters and the training system is guyot. Manual harvest the second week of September. Fermentation is with selected yeasts for 7 to 12 days. Aging is in stainless steel and amphorae.  Straw yellow in color flowery, fruity  with a hint of tangerine and a note peach and a long finish. $18

Primosic Ribolla Gialla Riserva (Orange Wine) DOC Collio 2018 made from 100% Ribolla Gialla from vineyards in Oslavia that are 30-35 years old. The soil is ponca (marl and sandstone). Fermentation is in open vats with 30 days skin contact. Aging is on the lees in Slavonian oak for 2 years and then 1 year in bottle before release. This is a dry wine with hints of green tea, orange grind and dried apricots. Dark orange color. The producer said that the wine is “Born with Slavic soul, the Orange wines of Primosic are a tribute to the heritage and ancient winemaking practices.” $29. Ribolla Gialla is a grape with a thick skin so it is perfect for long skin maceration.

It  was very interesting to taste Fruliano (Tocai) and Ribolla Gialla, the two grape varieties I identify the most with Collio, on successive days. The wines are very different. Tocai can be more Sauvignon Blanc- like with herbal notes, hints of tomato leaf and fennel, while Ribolla is rounder, has more body and has notes of tangerine, peach, and strawberry and can even be creamy.

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August 14, 2023 · 1:19 am

Tasting Collio Friulano DOC

While visiting the Collio region of Friuli Venezia Giulia on a  press trip sponsored by  The Consorzio Di Tutela Vini Collio, I tasted 10 examples of Friulano DOC Collio.

Tasting of Friulano DOC Collio

Mr. Salvini and Mr Baudains in the vineyard

The tasting was held at the Skok Winery. Sebastian Salvini, the export manager represented the winery and Richard Baudains, an English wine writer, conducted the tasting.

Mr. Salvini prepared some regional foods to have after the tasting.

Mr. Baudains explained that the wine known as Friuliano was once called Tocai. The name was changed because of a ruling by the European Union in 2007 which decided that due to the potential confusion with the Hungarian wine Tokaji, producers in Friuli can no longer call their wine Tocai.

The Wines

SKOK Friulano Zabura DOC Collio 2022. 100% Tocai Friulano from a single vineyard (cru). The soil is Ponce made of stratified marl and sandstone of Eocene origin. There are 5,500 plants per hectare. The harvest is by hand with a very careful selection of the grapes making sure all the grapes entering the winery are healthy. The grapes undergo a gentle pressing. Cold maceration at 12C degrees for one day. Static decantation to eliminate all the impurities. Fermentation is with inoculated yeasts in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees for 6 months. Battonage takes place for the first period, then the wine remains at rest. A cold decantation separates the wine from the yeast. The wine is then bottled in the spring following ancient traditions with the Easter moon which takes place a little before and a little after the full moon. The wine then remains in bottle for one month before release.The wine has hints of herbs, tomato leaves, white flowers with a touch of lime and a hint of green tea. There is an almond finish that is characteristic of the grape. The name Zabura is taken from an ancient map from the 1700’s. $16

STURM Friulano DOC Collio 2022 made from 100% Friulano from 50 year old vines. The training system is cappuccio. Harvest is by hand in September. Grapes are destemmed and cold macerated. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine spends a few months on the lees and is then bottled. The wine is a brilliant and clear straw yellow with hints of acacia, pears, thyme and almonds. $24

FRUSCALZO Friulano DOC Collio 2021 made from 100% Friulano from 30 to 60 year old vines.  The training system is guyot, cappuccio and casarsa. No herbicides are used, only natural fertilizers. Harvest is by hand in the middle of September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and a must clarification process by filtration. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in the same tanks under frequent battonage  with autochthonous yeasts for about 8 months in contact with the fine sediments consisting of complex mineral salts, acids and inactive yeast which dissolve enhancing the structure and harmony of the wine. After the tangential flow filtration, bottling takes place according to the phases of the moon. Vivid straw color, with hints of  fruit, acacia, wild flowers, discreet acidity and a touch of almonds. $14

PASCOLO Friulano DOC Collio 2021 made from 100% Friulano. The soil is marl and sandstone and the exposure is south/southeast. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. The vines were planted in 1989/1993. Harvest is manual. The grapes are destemmed and pressed. Fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is aged on the lees for a number of months. The wine remains in the bottle for 3 months before release. Color is straw yellow with golden highlights and hints of apple, hay, chamomile, with a touch of pear and typical almond tasting finish. $15

TENUTA STELLA Friulano DOC Collio 2021 made from 100% Tocai Friulano. The soil is marl and sandstone and the training system is Guyot. The vineyard is at 260 meters with a south/east exposure. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel at a controlled temperature with wild yeast. Aging is in stainless steel 90% and 10% in second passage French tonneaux for 10 months. There is a long aging on the lees before bottling. The wine is golden in color with bright highlights and hints of dandelion, broom, peach and apricot, a touch of bay leaf and a vegetal note. $20

The Wines

KURTIN Friulano DOC Collio. Made from 100%  Tocai Friulano. The training system is Guyot and the vines are 40 to 50 years old. The soil is called Ponca, a word in the local old Friulian language to indicate a type of soil characterized by marl and sandstone both of which are of oceanic origin. The manual harvest takes place at the last 15 days of September. The process starts with the soft pressure of grapes, then static clarification of the must. The must undergoes a along and slow alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature (18 °C), using selected yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The last refinement takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature until spring. Color is straw yellow tending toward greenish. The wine has hints of wild flowers, citrus fruit, pear and apricots with the typical almond aftertaste.$18

TENUTA BORGO CONVENTI Friulano DOC Collio 2021 made from 100% Friulano. Straw yellow color with a slight golden highlights. The soil is a mixture of marl and sandstone underlying stratified layers and clayey on the higher ground and fine grained at the foot of the hill slopes. There are 4,000/7,000 vines per hectare and the vines are 15/35 years old. The training system is guyot and Sylvoz. A small percentage of selected grapes undergoes cold fermentation before the pressing. There is a soft pressing of the grapes followed by temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 10 days. Once fermentation is complete the wine remains on the lees until spring when it is bottled. This is a fruit-driven wine with hints of alpine flowers, peach, apricot and a pleasant note of almonds. $19

LIVON Friulano Manditocai DOC Collio 2021 made from 100% Friulano. The soil is marl and clay and there are 4,200 vines per hectare. The vines are cordon and guyot trained and are 40 years old. Harvest of select grapes is by hand using boxes and sent to the cellars where whole bunches are pressed. The must from the pressing, characterized by the absence of rotation of the press and by the slow, gradual increase in pressure, is put in a stainless steel tank for a light cold settling.  After 24 hours, 50% of the product is distributed in steel barrels and 50% in Hungarian oak barriques chosen for alcoholic fermentation. After 8 months of refinement in barriques, characterized by a very fine wood and by a very light toasting , the finished wine is bottled.   The wine is yellow in color with golden reflections, hints of peach, white flowers, a touch of nutmeg and an aftertaste of bitter almonds. $23

TERRE DEL FAET Friulano DOC Collio 2021 made from 100% Friulano. Manual harvest. There is a soft pressing of the whole grapes and the must is decanted in a cold environment. Fermentation is with selected and indigenous yeasts at a controlled temperature and the wines is kept on the lees until it is bottled. The wine remains in the bottle for 30 days before release. The wine is straw yellow in color with hints of peach and apple, a touch of pineapple and a slight almond finish. $29

DRAGA Friulano Miklus DOC Collio 2018 made from 100% Friulano. Production zone is San Fioriano del Colle. The vines are 65 years old at 230 meters. Training system is guyot. The soil is ponca (layers of marl and sandstone).  Harvest is by hand at the beginning of September. There is manual selection of the grapes and they are destemmed followed by a soft pressing. The wine remains on the skins for 12 days in cylinder shaped vats made of oak without temperature control. Fermentation starts with native yeast and the cap is pushed down 3 times a day.  The wine is aged for 24 months in French oak tonneaux. The wine is unfiltered. They believe in as little intervention as possible on the part of the wine maker and he winery is organic, biodynamic and  vegan. The wine has a very deep amber hue. The name of the wine is Jakot which is Tokaj (Tocai) spelled backward. This is a full bodied unique wine with hints of dry tea, peach, apricot, and plum with a note of marmalade and a touch of almond. $59

Depending on the winemaker, the methods used and the location of the vineyards in Collio, I found each of these wines to have distinctive flavors and characteristics.

When I first visited Friuli Venezia Giulia if you asked for a glass of white wine, you were given Tocai.  Whether it is called Tocai or Tocai Friulano or Friulano, it is still the wine that embodies the taste of Collio.

 

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The Collio Wine Experience

An invitation to the Collio region of Friuli Venezia-Giulia by the Consorzio Di Tutela Vini Collio was my opportunity to drink some of the great white wines of Italy.  I recalled my first visit to the region a number of years ago.  At that time, I stayed at Castello di Spessa in Captiva del Friuli and was pleased to be able to return there again.  The Castello is now a hotel with beautifully landscaped gardens and a golf course.

Collio is a region of picturesque vineyards with hills covered in vines, woods, and small villages.

The Consorzio DI Tutela Vini Collio was founded in 1964 by the Count Sigismund Douglas Attems di Petzestein and in 1968 the region received  the DOC.  There are about 270 producers in the Collio and 178 are members of the Consorzio and they produce 7 million bottles.  The Consorzio is active in promoting, protecting and enhancing the Collio wines.

Collio is a crescent-shaped sub region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the province of Gorizia enclosed between the rivers Judrio and Isonzo. It is right up against the Slovenian border. There are a total of 7,000 hectares with a strong biodiversity, of which 1,300 hectares are vineyards. The vines are located in the municipalities of Gorizia, Capriva, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo,  Mossa, San Floriano del Collio and Isonzo San Lorenzo.

Because the Collio region is located between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea it is characterized by a unique microclimate as far as ventilation and temperature. The warmer air is influenced by the hot air streams from the Adriatic Sea which helps to keep the grapes dry. The mountains in the North protect the grapes from the cold winds.

The soil, known as Ponca, is made of stratified marl and sandstone of Eocene origin.  It crumbles in the hand revealing tiny fossils. The hills of Collio originate from the rising of the sea bottom. The soil makes wines with characteristic minerality and salinity. Unique wines from a unique soil unmistakable for their taste and aroma.

The were just 3 other wine writers on the trip. The first evening we had a lovely dinner and tasting at Acetaia Braide Alte Livon, located in Ruttars, Dolegna del Collio, which I have visited previously.

We were welcomed by the The President of the Consorzio, David Buzzinelli of Carlo di Pradis winery, and four other board members. The dinner and tasting took place on the terrace of the winery overlooking the vineyards.

One of the highlights of the meal was a Wild Herb Risotto with Gorgonzola Ice Cream and Bacon Crumble.

Consorzio Board Members: Matteo Livon of Livon S.S., Vice President, President Luca Raccaro of Raccaro Soc.Agricola, Vice President Paolo Corso of Tenuta Borgo Conventi, and Alessandro Pascolo of Vini Pascolo.

During the following days, there were formal tastings of Friuliano, Pino Grigio, Ribolla Galla and Sauvignon as well as informal tastings during lunch and dinner. 

The formal tastings were led by the English wine writer, Richard Baudains who has lived in the region since 1999.  I enjoyed his presentations.

We also tasted Collio Bianco which is the characteristic blend of Collio. Each producer has its own interpretation of the territory and highlights the features of the terroir and of course their own unique style. The Collio Blanco blend can be made of grapes belonging to one or more white varieties, included in the DOC Collio production regulation, with the exception of Müller Thurgau and Traminer Aromatico, which can be included up to 15%. The traditional blend is Malvasia Istriana, Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, so every Collio Bianco is different and surprising.

The Grapes of Collio

There are 17 grape varieties plus Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso.

87% White grapes and 13% Black grapes

The indigenous grape varieties include Friuliano 15%, Ribolla Gialla 11% and Picolit 1%.

International varieties include Pinot Grigio 24%, Sauvignon 18%, Chardonnay 8%, Malvasia Istriana 3% Pinot Bianco 3%, and smaller amounts of Traminer Aromatico, Riesling, and Muller Thurgau.

A specially designed bottle that has a smaller amount of glass is used.  It weighs only 500 grams.

The bottle has a longer neck, high quality low section cap, and a yellow capsule with the word Collio engraved on the bague of the bottle.

The Collio Bottle

The yellow capsule

This enables the Collio bottle to be recognized worldwide.  Only the highest quality cork is used.

One of the highlights of the trip was a dinner at one of my favorite restaurants in Italy, Trattoria Al Cacciatore La Subida Sirk, in Cormons. 

The specialties we enjoyed were Frico, fried Montasio cheese “lollipops,”

and Zlikrofi, small tortelli filled with potatoes and chives.

It was a great Experience.

A special thanks to Federica Schir for making the whole trip possible.

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