Category Archives: Chianti Classico

May 7, 2026 · 1:23 am

The Chianti Classico Grand Tasting in NYC

The Chianti Classico Grand Tasting in NYC is an event that I look forward to every year. Ever since I visited Florence and Tuscany back in 1970, I have enjoyed drinking Chianti Classico. When I attend the Grand Tasting, I can meet and speak with the producers, restaurateurs, wine sales people, and friends, all of whom are lovers of Chianti Classico.

The Wines and the People of Chianti Classico

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Gran Selezione 2021 made from 100% Sangiovese from hillside vineyards at 500 meters. The soil is Alberese and the training system is cordon and guyot. The 3 hectare vineyard was planted in the 1980’s. Hand harvested with selection in the vineyard. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. No added yeasts. The wine ages for 22 months in 20 HL casks (botti). This is a structured and balanced fruity wine with hints of red cherry, blackcurrants, ripe plum with a note of cinnamon and a touch of cloves.

I had visited the winery a few years ago and tasted the wine with Serena Gusmeri, the winemaker. To my surprise and delight Serena was at the tasting pouring the wines and we spoke about the wines. Serena believes in as little interference in the winemaking process as possible and she believes that the grapes should speak for themselves. The vines are very old and they produce a wine that is very concentrated and can last for 20 years or more. This concentration and longevity come from the grapes themselves and not from anything that is done during the winemaking process. My kind of wine.

Chianti Classico Grande Selezione “La Pieve” 2021 San Felice Made from Sangiovese and other native vines from their finest vineyards. The soil is of medium texture with a predominance of clay of calcareous-marly origin, derived from the disintegration of Alberese and Galestro. The training system is cordone speronato and guyot. Harvest is the 4th week of September. Alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, with maceration for 22 days at a temperature of 28– 30°C. Malolactic fermentation and aging in wood for 24 months. Refinement in French oak tonneaux of 500 liters. Bottle aging for 8 months. This is a full bodied wine with hints of violet, black currants and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of licorice. This is a true expression of Chianti Classico. This wine will age for 10 to 15 years.

Monsanto Chianti Classico “IL Poggio” made from 95% Sangiovese and 3% Colorino and 2% Canaiolo. The training system is guyot and spurred cordon. The soil is sandstone content with limestone. There are 5,500 plants per hectare. Fermentation lasts for 15 days with pre-fermentation maceration lasting 3 days in temperature controlled truncated-cone vats with indigenous yeasts. Delestage and pumping over lasts for 22 days. The wine is aged in 38 HL French oak barrels for 18 months. The wine has hints of black cherry, blueberry, cassis, coffee, tobacco and a note of violets. This is a wine that can age and one of my favorites. I have a long history with Monsanto going back almost 40 years and the wonderful 1977 vintage. I visited the winery and met the owner, the legendary Fabrizio Bianchi, in 1983. Today the winery is in the hands of his daughter, Laura Bianchi.

At the event pouring the wine for Monsanto was Giulia Cecchi, daughter of Laura Bianchi and Andrea Cecchi ,CEO of Cecchi.

Andrea Ceechi holding the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2021 “Valore Di Famiglia” Cecchi made from 100% Sangiovese Made from the historic Cru Paragone vineyard in Castilian in Chianti. The soil is limestone and clay (alberese) with significant pebble content on steep slopes. A minimum of 30 months total aging, including 15 months in oak tonneaux, followed by 3 months in concrete vats and at least one year of bottle resting. The wine has hints of blackberries, black cherry, rasperries, and spice with a touch of walnut and a hint of balsamic. I have know Andrea Cecchi for a number of and it is always a pleasure to see and to speak to him. In the background of the photo is another friend, Dino Tantawi, founder of Vignaioli Selections.

Carobbio Chianti Classico

Back in the 1980’s with Susan Westmorland and John Simmons we tried to buy this winery. I believe back then it was called Villa Carobbio and the label was very different. We visited the winery and met with the owners in NYC but we could not come to an agreement.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo Panzano 2022 Fontodi made from 100% Sangiovese from the Vigna del Sorbo vineyard with a southwest exposure and 55 year old vines. There are 3,500/6,000 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. Fermentation and maceration is in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts for at least 3 weeks. The wine is aged in French oak barriques and large casks for 24 months. The winery is certified organic. The wine has hints of black cherry, black currants, blackberry, plum and a touch of spice.

This is a family winery is headed by Giovanni Manetti, who I have know for a number of years. He is also President of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium.

Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selection Riserva Ducale Oro 2021 made from about 85 % Sangiovese with some Merlot and Colorino. As I was tasting this wine my mind went back to the 1947.

Chianti Riserva Ducale Ruffino 1947 made from 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia and Trebbiano and 5% Colorino, Ciliegiolo and Cabernet. Made by using the governo method. Once common in Tuscany, governo is a secondary fermentation created by the addition of dried grapes 10-15%, or the must of dried or concentrated grapes. Colorino was usually the grape of choice to be dried. The best grapes from Ruffino’s vineyard were used for the Riserva Ducale, which spent at least three years in large oak casks. The Riserva Gold Label is a selection of the lots of the best vintages of the Riserva Ducale. The wine was well over 50 years old when I drank it and it was fantastic

Chianti Classico 2022 Riserva Chianti Classico Tenuta Perano (Frescobaldi) Made from Sangiovese and Merlot. The vineyard is at 500 meters. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The cap formed on the surface is broken frequently to ensure perfect polyphonic extraction. The wine is aged in oak barrels for 24 months and for a time in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, red berries, and leather with floral notes and a touch of pepper. $46 I have always enjoyed all the wines made by Frescobaldi.

Chianti Classico 2024 Banfi made from mostly Sangiovese and small amounts of Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. The soil is calcareous and well structured. Fermentation takes place with traditional skin contact of 8 to 10 days. The wine is aged for a short time in large casks of French oak. Bottling takes place the summer after the harvest. The wine has hints of cherries, plums and violets with a note of leather. Banfi has for many years been a leader in Italian Wine

Nest Time the Master Class I attended at the Grand Tasting: Tradition Thrives on Innovation: Techniques & Traditions Defining Chianti Classico. Hosted by Jeff Porter on Zoom from Torino and Randall Restiano

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March 7, 2025 · 3:18 am

SIX WINES TO ENJOY

Because I have been unwell, my reporting has been sporadic lately, but I look forward to being back on schedule shortly! Meanwhile, these are some wines I have recently enjoyed drinking.

Campania Falanghina IGT 2021 De Meo made from 100% Falanghina from Guardia Sanframondi (BN) at 500 meters. The vines were planted in 2005. The exposure is south/east and the soil is clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning. Manual harvest of select bunches in 15 kg baskets tales place the first week of October. Cryomaceration followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel for about 3 months and 3 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apple, litchi, dried fruit and thyme with a flowery note. This is an excellent Falanghina $25.00

Chateau d’Estoublon Roseblood Rose 2024 made from 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Cinsault and 5% Rollo. Soil is clay-limestone red earth, areas of gravel and flint. At 350 – 400m altitude. Direct pressing, cold alcoholic fermentation, vinification and maturation in stainless steel and concrete vats. Aged for several weeks on fine lees. Alcohol 12.5%. This wine offers a mix of strawberry, melon and nectarine flavors with notes of smoke, fresh green herbs and minerals. Well balanced. $25

Esporāo Reserva 2022 Monte Velho made from Touriga Nacional, Aragon, Syrah and Trincadeira from a careful selection from the various regions of the Alentejo. The soil is granitic/schist and loam/clay. The average age of the vines is 18 years. Mechanical harvesting. After destemming and crushing, alcohol fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature, the grapes are then pressed, then malolactic fermentation. Aging is in oak barrels for 8 months. The wine has hints of wild berries, black plums with slight notes of jam. $12

Chianti Classico Grande Selezione “La Pieve” 2021 San Felice Made from Sangiovese and other native vines from the finest company vineyards. The soil is of medium texture with a predominance of clay of calcareous-marly origin, derived from the disintegration of Alberese and Galestro. The training system is cordone speronato and guyot. Harvest is the 4th week of September. Alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, with maceration for 22 days at a temperature of 28– 30°C. Malolactic fermentation and aging in wood for 24 months. Refinement in French oak tonneaux of 500 liters. Bottle aging for 8 months. This is a full bodied wine with hints of violet, black currents and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of licorice. This is a true expression of Chianti Classico and I have been drinking and enjoying the wines of San Felice of a number of years. This wine will age for 10 to 15 years. $50

Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai DO C Superiore 2015 Pasqua made from 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 10%Rondinella and 10% Oseleta from the Montenegro vineyard. This is a 23 hectare vineyard on a hill at 350 meters between Val d’Illasi and Val di Mezzane, the soil is basalt and calcareous in origin, with optimal mineral content. The grapes are hand-picked with careful selection. Following gentle pressing, fermentation takes place at controlled temperatures between 20-22°C. The next step is aging in French oak 500-liter casks and 225-liter barrels (mainly new or second use) for 18 month. 15% Alcohol. The wine has hints of tobacco, cedar, clove, morello cherry, coffee and balsamic notes. The finish is long with a touch of spice. $55

Amarone Della Valpolicella 2018 Famiglia Pasqua made from 65% Corina, 25% Rondinella and 10% Corvinone. The soil is calcareous, clayey and gravely and the vines are about 30 years old. The grapes are harvested by hand in September and laid down to dry in the drying loft for about 3 months where the bunches lose about 25-30% of their weight and substances in the grapes become concreted. After pressing, alcoholic fermentation in steel vats begin, for about 25-30 days at a controlled temperature. Continuous punching down carried out to encourage extraction of color and tannin. The wine is then transferred to French oak barrels where malolactic fermentation takes place and gives softness to the wine. After about 18-20 months of aging, the wine is bottled and aged for another four months. The wine has hints of blueberries, cherries, cocoa, tobacco with spicy notes and a hint of vanilla. There is a persistent aftertaste with a hint of morello cherries. Alcohol 15%. $60

Note: This year marks a century of Pasqua Wines. Founded in 1925, Pasqua has remained a family-owned winery for three generations, dedicated to producing terroir-driven wines that capture the richness of Valpolicella and beyond. I have been enjoying Pasqua wines for the last forty years.

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June 13, 2024 · 1:14 am

Celebrating 100 Years of Chianti Classico

This year the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico is celebrating its 100th Anniversary. I attended the Chianti Classico 100th Anniversary Grand Tasting which was held on April 29th in NYC. It was a tasting not only of the current vintages of Chianti Classico but also of older vintages.

Here is the official announcement from the Consorzio:

The royal decree of 7^th March 1924 made possible the establishment of the Consorzi di Tutela, with the 33 founding fathers the first to seize the opportunity to protect and preserve Chianti Classico wine, its territory, landscape, and economy. On March 14 1924 it was signed by the founding fathers.

It is the first wine Consortium founded in Europe and one whose purpose has always been to protect and promote one of the best-known Made in Italy wine products.

The Chianti Classico Wine Consorzio celebrated together with the city of Florence its first 100 years! A hundred years ago after its establishment in Radda in Chianti, the Chianti Classico Consorzio established its offices in the historic palazzo Uguccioni in Piazza della Signoria, in Florence. Today, in an exceptional occasion, the historic headquarters of the Consortium returns to its old clothes, to share with all the citizens what the Chianti Classic wine is today. Among stellar chefs, tasting… rock, theater, music, young producers.

The following are a just a few of the wines I tasted in NYC

Monsanto Chianti Classico “IL Poggio” made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino and Canaiolo. The training system is guyot and spurred cordon. The wine is vinified in temperature controlled conical steel vats. Delestage and pumping over for about 20 to 22 days. The wine is aged in 500 liter oak barrels, partly new and partly secondhand for 18 to 20 months. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 years before release. The wine has hints of blackberries and blueberries with a hint of violets. Monsanto is located in the western-central area of the Chianti Classico region in the municipality of Barberino Tavarnelle.

I have a long history with Monsanto going back almost 40 years and the wonderful 1977 vintage. I visited the winery and met the owner, the legendary Fabrizio Bianchi, in 1983. Today the winery is in the hands of his daughter Laura Bianchi.

They were also showing a 1969 Monsanto Chianti Classico “IL Poggio”

Cecchi Chianti Classico “Storia La Famiglia” 1981 Made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Canaiolo. The vineyards are at 259 meters and the soil is middle dough, alkaline and stones. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon. There is traditional red wine fermentation at a controlled temperature. Fermentation and maceration for 18 days. The wine is aged in bottle for a minimum of 2 months. This is a wine with hints of raspberries, strawberries, blueberries a touch of spice and a hint of pine. Always one of my favorites.

Pouring the wine for both Monsanto and Cecchi was Giulia Cecchi, daughter of Andrea Cecchi CEO of Cecchi. She was also pouring wine for her mother, Laura Bianchi of Monsanto.

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio Grand Selezione 2021 made from 100% Sangiovese. Castello di Brolio is their flagship wine created from a meticulous selection of estate-grown grapes from the three most representative soils in Brolio: Macigno del Chianti (sandstone), Scaglia Toscana (Galestro), Monte Morello (Alberese). There are 6,600 vines per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon vines were planted 1994-2005. Harvest from September 21 to 28. Fermentation and maceration in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of 24°C-27°C (75.2°-80.6°F) with 14-16 days of skin contact. The wine ages for 22 months in tonneaux of 500hl of which 30% are new oak and 70% of second passage. They were also pouring wines from older vintages

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Gran Selezione made from 100% Sangiovese from hillside vineyards at 500 meters. The soil is Alberese and the training system is cordon and guyot. The 3 hectare vineyard was planted in the 1980’s. Hand harvested with selection in the vineyard. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. No added yeasts. The wine ages for 22 months in 20 HL casks (botti). This is a structured and balanced fruity wine with hints of red cherry, blackcurrants, ripe plum with a note of cinnamon and a touch of cloves. I visited the winery a few years ago and have spoken to one of the owners, Nicola Marzavilla about the wine and the winery.

Tenuta Perano (Frescobaldi) Chianti Classico 2021 made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties. Grapes are harvested by hand. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Then maceration on the skins with a controlled and careful pumping over. The different grapes were aged separately in wood, then further aging in bottle until the wine is ready for release. The wine has hints of red berries, cherries, plums, violets, floral notes and a touch of spice. $27

Chianti Classico Badia a Coltibuono 2021 made from 90% Sangiovese 5% Colorino and 5% Ciliegiolo. The vineyards are at 250/330 meters and the soil in clay loam and limestone rock. The training system is guyot and the wines are 6 to 30 years old. There are 5,000 to 7,300 vines per hectare. Indigenous yeast from grapes with a starter. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. There is a light gelatin fining and a membrane filtration. The wine is aged in 2,000 to 2,500 liter French and Austrian oak casks for about 12 months. Then aged in bottle for about 3 months before release. The winery has been organic since 1995. The wine has hints strawberry and raspberry with good acidity, a note of violet and a touch of sunshine on the Tuscan pines. I have been drinking this Chianti Classico since I had lunch at the winery in 1983 and had the 1978 vintage.

Chianti Classico Banfi 2022 made from mostly Sangiovese and small amounts of Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. The soil is calcareous and well structured. Fermentation takes place with traditional skin contact of 8 to 10 days. The wine is aged for a short time in large casks of French oak. Bottling takes place the summer after the harvest. The wine has hints of cherries, plums and violets with a note of leather.

San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva “IL Grigio” made from 100% Sangiovese from the San Felice Estate in Castelnuovo Beradenga (Siena). Soil is medium textured. Predominantly calcareous marl breakdown of Alberese and Galestro limestone, with abundant gravel pebble mixture. Spur pruned cordon training system. Harvest is the second week of September to the first week of October. Vinification & maturation fermentation on the skins at 28–30° C for 18–20 days followed by malolactic fermentation in steel. 80% of the wine then matures for 24 months in 60 or 90 hl in Slavonian oak casks, and 20% in 225-liter French barriques, followed by a further 6 months or so in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, red berry fruit, cherry, strawberry and a hint of plum.

Chianti Classico Tolaini Tolaini Vallenuova 2020 Cantelnuovo Berardenga made from 95% Sanviovese and 5% Canaiolo. The soil is silty clay, rich in limestone with a high percentage of stones. There are 7,350 plants per hectare planted in 2000. Grapes are first selected during harvest in the vineyard and then by an optical sorter when they arrive at the winery; they are destemmed and the whole berries are immediately placed in stainless steel tanks. Fermentation is temperature controlled, and the must is kept in contact with the skins for 20 days. The wine matures for 10 months in a mix of Tuscan, Slavonian, and Austrian oak casks. The wine has hints of black cherry, tobacco, a touch of licorice and a note of spice. This is a winery I discovered a few years ago and really liked their wines.

Chianti Classico 2021 Lilliano made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. After the quality-selected clusters are destemmed and pressed, the must is fermented and macerated in stainless steel for 18-20 days at a controlled temperature with programmed punch-downs and daily pumpovers. Maceration fermentation takes place in concrete and small stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 18-20 days depending on the vintage. The wine ages for about 12 to 14 months in large casks of French oak and partly in concrete. After maturation, the final blend is assembled, bottled and aged in glass for a minimum of 3 months. This is a wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, violets and a touch of cassis.

They were also showing Chianti Classico Riserva 1998. I rediscovered this winery a few years ago thanks to a friend and have been a fan ever since.

Chianti Classico Antinori “Badia A Passignano” 2020 made from 100% Sangiovese. The production zone is Tavarnella Val di Pesa. The soil is rich in limestone rock with an average amount of clay and the vineyard is at 300 meters. Fermentation lasts for 10 days and the must is in contact with the skins for another 10-12 days. After racking, the various lots were aged for 14 months in Hungarian oak barrels and in French oak barrels. The wine remained in the bottle for another 12 months. The wine has aromas of ripe fruit, with hints of cherries, blood oranges, a note of lavender and a slight touch of vanilla. It has a nice finish and lasting aftertaste.

I have always been of the opinion that Chianti Classico wines can age. Some of the oldest I tasted have been from Antinori. Thanks to a friend I was able to drink a 1943 Santa Christina which was a Chianti Classico back then. The wine was over 60 years old at the time and it was wonderful.

Visiting Tenuta Casenuove

When Federica Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com) heard that Michele and I were in Rome a few weeks ago, she invited us to meet her at Tenuta Casenuove in the Chianti Classico Zone. We took the train from Rome to Florence and met Federica at the station. The winery is located in the heart of Tuscany near the town of Panzano, between Florence and Siena.

At the winery we met Alessandro Fonseca, an agronomist who is the General Manager and Wine Director of the estate. He told us that the history of the property goes back to the 1600’s but the modern story begins in 2015 when it was acquired by Philippe Austruy, an entrepreneur, art collector, and wine lover who also owns prestigious wineries in France and Portugal.

The vineyards

He undertook a complete renovation of the estate which comprises 120 hectares of rolling hills. Vines, woodlands and olive groves coexist in this part of Tuscany celebrated for its biodiversity. There are 30 hectares of vineyards at about 450 meters which are dedicated to the production of red wine.

Cosimo Casini in the Cellar

Alessandro hired enologist Cosimo Casini to direct all of the vineyards, and cellar master Maria Sole Zoli. Together they are a very talented team. Cosimo took us on a tour of the vineyards and spoke about the terroir and explained why certain grape varieties were planted in specific soil. In the cellar he said they produce a very traditional Chianti Classico Classico but use the latest innovative techniques to make the wine.

He pointed to a tank the size of a barrique made of steel, not wood. He said it imparts all of the elements of barriques without adding any wood flavor.

The wines of Tenuta Casenuove

ZIIK Spumante Rosé Charmat Metodo Extra Brut Bio made from 100% Sangiovese. Limestone clay soil of marine origin. The exposure is south/southwest. Harvest takes place the last week of August and the first week of September. The grapes are harvested manually, according to a rigorous selection from the areas most suited to sparkling wine. Once in the cellar the grapes are crushed by soft pressing and constantly monitored with several tastings to understand the exact moment of the end of the pressing. This is to guarantee only the best, most delicate, fresh and aromatic part of the pressing, free from vegetable astringencies and excessive hardness. This is followed by a cold static decantation of the grape must obtained without the use of any additives. After that, alcoholic fermentation takes place in a controlled temperature steel tank, respecting all the organic production protocols. The wine is bottled in March the year following the harvest after 4 months on the lees.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020 made from 90% Sangiovese, 6% Cannaiolo and 4% Merlot. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay dating back to the Cretaceous Oligocene era with the presence of galestro and sandstone coming from the disintegration of the “Macigno del Chianti” rock. Harvest is the second week of September to the first ten days in October. In the cellar, the bunches are sorted and then the grapes. Vinification is in raw concrete tanks filled by gravity. The grapes are gently placed in the tanks without using mechanical pumps that could damage the grapes.

Cosimo said this step is essential to manage the “whole grape” winemaking and it affects the entire architectural design of the winery and the purchase of sorting machines. Once fermentation has started, pumping over and delestage are carried out during the entire period, up to 25 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing.

The wine is aged 6 to 8 months in a concrete tank and in 45 HL Slavonian oak barrels and 18 months in bottled before it is released. The wine has floral notes with hints of black and red fruit, violets and maraschino cherry.

Cosimo said 2020 was a fairly regular vintage. It was complicated, however, by the lockdown and the restrictions imposed to protect against the Covid-19 epidemic which greatly complicated normal wine management.

Chianti Classico DOC 2019 Riserva made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is a mix of limestone clays of marine origin with the presence of galestro. Vinification is the same as above. The wine is aged in 25HL Slavonian casks and 500 liter tonneaux of first and second passage for 12 months and in bottle for 24/30 months before release. It has flavors and aromas raspberry and blackberry with balsamic notes, floral hints and pleasant acidity.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2019 Gran Selezione made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay dating back to the Cretaceous Oligocene era with the presence galestro of particular selections from the Sopratorre-Pozzo vineyard. Harvest takes place the first week of October. Once fermentation has started, pumping over and delestage are carried out during the time in the tank up to 30 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing. The wine is aged for 20 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and in bottle for 36 months before release. This is an elegant complex wine with hints of violets, wild berries, cherries, tobacco leaf with a very long finish and pleasing aftertaste. The wine can age for 10 years or more. Cosimo said “this wine is the maximum expression of the Sangiovese from Panzano, a true expression of the terroir of our estate.”

Cosimo said 2019 was a very balanced vintage. There were rains that allowed an excellent water reserve in the soils but did not create problems for fungus diseases.

IGT Toscana 2020 Tenuta Casenuove made from 60% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Cosimo said the plot selection was chosen because it is characterized by evident outcrops of galestro, less fertile and suited to quality viticulture. Harvest is from the middle of September to the first 10 days of October. Vinification is in vitrified cement tanks at a controlled temperature. Once fermentation has has started pumping over and delestage are carried out for up to 30 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing. The wine is aged for 12 months in cement tanks, large Slavonian oak barrels and barriques for 12 months, then in bottle for 30 months before release. This is a big rich, complex wine, dense and concentrated with ripe black and red fruit, spice snd a touch of mocha. It is a wine with great aging potential and could age for 20 years.

After our tour, we enjoyed a tasting of the wines, followed by dinner with Federica, Alessandro and Cosimo in the dining room of the beautifully decorated main house. Conversation ranged from activities in the Chianti Classico Zone, olive oil production, the delicious food and future plans for Tenuta Casenuove. We also learned that Alessandro is produces an excellent dessert wine on his own property.

Tenuta Casenuove also produces an excellent extra virgin olive oil which tasted during dinner.

Dinner

Our dinner began with fettuccine with a sausage ragu made by the chef of Tenuta Casenuove.

Next we had a typical beef stew of the region served with mashed potatoes. Our meal was matched perfectly with the wines we had previously sampled.

With our dessert, Michele had a glass of port from one of Tenuta Casenuove’s owner’s estates in Portugal, Quinta da Côrte Porto LBV 2016, and I had a very traditional grappa made from Sangiovese.

Dessert was a classic crostata di marmellata filled with homemade jam made with an assortment of berries.

We stayed overnight in one of the lovely appointed rooms in the main building.

We left early the next day and on the way back to Florence I had a chance to reflect on how much I had enjoyed the wines of Tenuta Casenuove and how pleased I was to see them making Chianti Classico wines in the traditional way.

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December 22, 2023 · 2:54 am

Eight Wines to Enjoy from 2023

Looking back on 2023, I have written about many wines and here are eight more, five from Italy and three from California, that I think you might want to know about.

Umbria IGT Bianco Grechetto 2021 Argillae made from 100% Grechetto. The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before it is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and a typical almond finish. $18

I have visited the winery a few times as it is just outside Orvieto which is a short train ride from Rome.

Giulia di Cosimo, manager/owner of the winery at a Wine Media Guild tasting

This wine was tasted at an event sponsored by the region of Umbria for the NY Wine Media Guild in NYC at Il Gattopardo Restaurant.

Nero D’Avola “Irmána” Sicilia DOC 2022 Corvo made from 100% organic Nero d’Avila from western and southern Sicily from vineyards over 200 meters. Soil is a mixed composition of limestone/siliceous and the training system is espalier with medium to high density of vines per hectare. Harvest is in the last two weeks in September. Traditional fermentation with balanced maceration on the skins followed by careful malolactic fermentation. The wine then remains in steel for two months. After the wine is bottled it spends one month in the cellars before release. This aromatic wine has hints of cherry, raspberry, licorice a touch of strawberry and a hint of red currents. $NA

Nero D’Avola “10” Sicilia DOC 2020 Baglio Bonsignori made from 100% Nero d’Avola. The winery is located in the Giddio district of the countryside of Naro in the province of Agrigento in Sicily. There are 13 hectares of vineyards which are located at an altitude of between 300 and 400 meters above sea level and 18 kilometers from the sea. The soil is calcareous/clay. The winery is biodynamic. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, plum, spice and a touch of tobacco. $NA

My grandfather Angelo Scicolone was born in Naro in 1868. I visited there once many years ago way before this winery was established.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2019 Querciabella made of mostly Sangiovese from top sites in three of Chianti’s best sub-zones: Greve, Radda, and Gaiole. In Greve, the Sangiovese enjoys a natural south-orientation. The soils, typically composed of sandstone rocks and sands obtained from the flaking of galestro, are richer in clay at lower altitudes (350-400 meters) and progressively become looser and more draining as they reach close to 550 meters. Similar characteristics can be found in Radda (450 meters), but the higher presence of galestro slate results in wines of persistent tannins and darker fruit profiles. At 500 meters, the soils in Gaiole are rich in calcium carbonate and deliver a riper expression of the Sangiovese fruit and a marked acidity thanks to the presence of limestone rocks, also known as Albarese. Grapes are carefully selected in the vineyards, and harvested by hand into 9kg crates. They are destemmed, never crushed, then conveyed into temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, where alcoholic fermentation and maceration take place. Maceration lasts about 12 days. After completing full malolactic fermentation, the wine is transferred to extra fine grained oak barriques (225L) and tonneaux (500L) of which 10% are new. The wine is regularly racked and tasted during the entire 12-month maturation period. At the end of the élevage, the best lots are selected through extensive tasting and assembled to create the final blend. After bottling, the wine rests for at least three months before release. The winery is 100% Biodynamic and organic Vegan. No animal products or byproducts are used in the production of this wine, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. There is no use of chemicals, fertilizers or pesticides, creating a welcoming environment for the existence of beneficial insects and birds that assist the natural viticultural practices. Querciabella has been a top producer for many years. $34

Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2020 Antonelli San Marco. Made from 100% Sagrantino. Sagrantino is the traditional wine of Montefalco, made from Sagrantino grapes from vines grown for centuries on the slopes of the Umbrian hills characterized by great structure and longevity. Vineyards are located on hills between 300 and 400 meters.The exposure is southern and southwesterly and the training system is spurred cordon and guyot. The wines are about 15 years old. The grapes are hand picked the second week of October and there is a final selection in the cellar. Vinification involves using the force of gravity because there are two levels in the cellar. During fermentation the skin is in contact with the juice for 25/40 days and then malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine clarifies spontaneously and there is no need for filtration. The wine is aged in large oak barrels for 18 months. The wine remains in glass lined cement tanks for a number of months before it is bottled.

This is a very complex wine with hints of red and black fruit, wild berries, cherry, a touch of citrus and a note of mint. $45. The winery is certified organic.

I visited the winery a number of years ago and was very impressed with the wines. I was able to taste wines that were 10 years to 15. More recently I was able to taste the wines again in Filippo Antonelli’s home in Rome. I am always impressed by his wines. I tasted this wine at an event sponsored by the region of Umbria for the NY Wine Media Guild in NYC at Il Gattopardo.

California Wine

Chardonnay 2019 Ettore Biraghi made from 100% pure Chardonnay organic grapes from 100% estate grown grapes in the Sanel Valley Vineyards/Hopland, in the southernmost town in Mendocino County in California. The soil is mostly gravel and loamy and the elevation is 500 to 600 feet. Age of vine plots from 8 to 22 years. Harvest is by hand and there is traditional white wine fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, banana, melon and a touch of caramel $28

Chardonnay 2021 Langetwins made from 100% Chardonnay from the Clarksburg Merrill Vineyard (81.09 acres) Certified Lodi Rules for Sustainable Wine growing. Soil is silty and mucky clay loam with derivation mixed rock and decomposed plants. Training system is trellising with T-Trellis with 16” foliage crossarm. Harvest is from August 21 to September 1. Aging in neutral oak for 16 months. Residual sugar 1.5 g/l. The wine has hints of brioche, honeyed melon and tropical pineapple. $25

Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Langetwins made from 100% Cabernet from the Thirty Eight Vineyard, Jahant AVA(48.52 acres. Soil is thick surface loam with derivation granite rock. The training system is Trellising-California Sprawl. Harvest was September 12. The wine is aged in French oak for 19 months and was bottled on April 20, 2023. The wine has hints of plum, star anise and mission figs. $38

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

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Filed under Antonelli, Argillae Winery, California wine, Chianti Classico, Montefalco, sagrantino

December 7, 2023 · 2:52 am

Frescobaldi’s Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico

The Frescobaldi Family has eleven estates in Italy, ten of which are in Tuscany. Tenuta Castiglione in Chianti Classico is the point of origin of wine production for Frescobaldi and documents indicate that wines were produced there as early as 1300.

The family traces its roots back 700 years in Florence through 30 generations. They began in banking and played an important role in the political, economic, cultural and social life of Florence. Today the family family operates the wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi and is behind the Laudemio brand of Italian olive oil.

I have enjoyed Frescobaldi wines for many years and recently had an opportunity to taste wines from Tenuta Perano which they also own.

Tenuta Perano is located in Gaiole in Chianti, in the Chianti Chianti Classico region of Tuscany. The vineyards are at 500 meters. Steep slopes and stony soils characterize the landscape.

Chianti Classico 2020 made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties. Grapes are harvested by hand. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Then maceration on the skins with a controlled and careful pumping over. The different grapes were aged separately in wood, then further aging in bottle until the wine is ready for release. The wine has hints of red berries, cherries, plums, violets, floral notes and a touch of spice. $27

Chianti Classico 2016 Riserva Chianti Classico Made from Sangiovese and Merlot. The vineyard is at 500 meters. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The cap formed on the surface is broken frequently to ensure perfect polyphonic extraction. The wine is aged in oak barrels for 24 months and for a time in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, red berries, and leather with floral notes and a touch of pepper. $46

Chianti Classico 2018 Riserva made from Sangiovese and Merlot same as above $46

Chianti Classico “ Rialzi” Grand Selezione 2018 Made from 100% Sangiovese from the Rialzi vineyard at 500 meters and higher, laid out over three terraces with alberese soil and a southern exposure. At harvest the grapes are carefully hand picked and at the winery there is another selection process. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel vats, with skin maceration and gentle pumping over. Aging is for 36 months in which 24 were in barriques. Then the wine is aged in the bottle until it is ready for release. This is a full bodied wine with hints of cider, cinnamon, sweet spices, plum, fig and a touch of tobacco. $51

Both 2016 and 2018 were excellent vintages in Chianti Classcio

Wines from Historic Families of Tuscany

The Frescobaldi family has eleven estates in Italy, ten of which are in Tuscany. The family traces its roots back 700 years in Florence through 30 generations. They began in banking and played an important role in the political, economic, cultural and social life of Florence.

The Castello Nipozzano is situated in the heart of the Chianti Rufina zone east of Florence overlooking the Arno River Valley.

Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2020 Frescobaldi. Made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties from the oldest vines on the Castello Nipozzano estate which have a very deep root structure. The grapes are transferred to the cellar immediately after harvesting. They are destemmed and spontaneous fermentation takes place in cement tanks. Maceration is for 20 days with frequent pumping over of the must. The wine remains in the vats to complete maceration. The wine is aged for 24 months in oak barrels according to the ancient Tuscan tradition, then bottled for a time until it is ready to be released. This wine has hints of cherry, blackberry, blueberry, balsamic, and a touch of violet. $32

I have enjoyed the wines of Marchesi Frescobaldi for many years now and they always produce excellent wine at a fair price. This is my type of Chianti and I have always been impressed by it.

Tenuta Frescobaldi (Castiglione) is just slightly southwest of Florence in Val di Pesa. This is the first Frescobaldi estate, dating back to 1300.

Tenuta Frescobaldi Castoglioni IGT 2020 made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese. The soil is calcareous clay with many stones. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed and fermented. Light pump overs were carried out on a regular basis in temperature controlled steel tanks. After alcoholic fermentation, malolactic fermentation takes place. Aging is for 12 months in barriques and 2 months in the bottle before release. This wine has hints of cherry, blackberry and blueberry with a note of cinnamon and a touch of black pepper and toast. It has a long finish and lasting aftertaste. $30

Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 Tenuta Perano, Frescobadi is located in Gaiole in Chianti. Made from Sangiovese and Merlot. The vineyard is at 500 meters. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The cap formed on the surface is broken frequently to ensure perfect polyphonic extraction. The wine is aged in oak barrels for 24 months and for a time in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, red berries, and leather with floral notes and a touch of pepper. $32

Tenuta Lilliano

The property was acquired in 1920 by Baron Beringieri. In 1958 the first Lilliano wines were bottled for sale at the hands of Princess Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri. She was the first to appreciate the potential of Lilliano as a winemaking estate. She was helped by Giulio Gambelli, who has been called the “Sangiovese guru.” T

Alessandro Ruspoli

Today the property is owned by brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli and has been managed by Giulio since 1989. Their nephew Alessandro represents Lilliano internationally. The enologist now is the famous Lorenzo Landi. Alessandro said the Chianti Classico labels bear the Ruspoli and Berlingieri family coat of arms. The current owners of Lilliano reside in the historic Ruspoli Palace in the center of Rome.

Chianti Classico 2021 DOCG made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Merlot. After the quality-selected clusters are destemmed and pressed, the must is fermented and macerated in stainless steel for 18-20 days at a controlled temperature with programmed punch downs and daily pumpovers. Maceration fermentation takes place in concrete and small stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 18-20 days depending on the vintage. The wine ages for about 12 to 14 months partly in large casks of French oak and partly in concrete. After maturation, the final blend is assembled, bottled and aged in glass for a minimum of 3 months. This is a wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, violets and a touch of cassis. $21

Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot from the first selection. After a careful selection the grapes undergo soft pressing and destalking. During fermentation the must is pumped over with plunging of the cap on a daily basis. Maceration lasts for 21 to 25 days depending on the vintage. Malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. The wine ages in large casks of French oak 28 to 34HL. The final blend is assembled and the wine ages in glass a minimum of 6 months. The wine has hints of cherry, cassis, violets, and a touch of spice. $30

Le Corti

Duccio Corsini

Duccio Corsini is the owner of Principe Corsini wines and the Villa Le Corti estate which goes back to 1363. He is a counselor for the Chianti Classico Consortium. The Corsini Family is one of the oldest in Italy, going back to the 13th century. One of Duccio’s ancestors, the Cardinal Lorenzo Corsini, became Pope Clemente XII. If you visit the Villa Corsini in Rome you can see a painting of the Pope. In fact it contains one of the most important collections of paintings done after the year 1000 A.D including a painting of Saint John the Baptist by Caravaggio.

Cortevcchia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019 San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Florence. Made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino. The vineyards are at 270 to 350 meters and the exposure is south. Soil: pliocenic hills rich in river stones and there are 5,800 plants per hectare. The training system is low spurred cordon and the average age of the vines is 25 years old. Harvest was from September 18 to September 29th. Fermentation is for 20 days at 28°C in open-air tanks with temperature control. The grapes are inoculated with select indigenous yeasts. Wine ages in cement vats for 12 months. The wine has hints of violets, iris, currents, cherries and a touch of pepper. The winery practices organic viticulture. $35

IGT Chianti Classic Gran Selezione “ZAC” 100% Sangiovese from the Gugliaie vineyard (2.5 ha} with a southern exposure. The exposure is south and the training system is spurred cordon. There are 5,400 vines per hectare. Fermentation is in steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 16 days. It is aged for 18 months mainly in used barriques and 12 months in bottle before release. This is a complex wine with hints of wild berries, violets, cherries, plums, a note of spice and a touch of leather. The wine is dedicated to Anna Corsini, the sister of Prince Tommaso. Anna Corsini was affectionately called Zac by her grandchildren and great grandchildren. $110

I was happy to see both Duccio and Alessandro again at the James Suckling Great Wines of Italy Event in NYC where I tasted their wines once again.

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March 9, 2023 · 2:44 am

Tasting Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico

Tony Di Dio represents a line of fine wines through his company, Tony Di Dio Selections. I was delighted to accept his invitation to taste the wines of Tenuta Lilliano located in Chianti Classico.

The tasting and lunch was held at Bar Boulud in NYC and Alessandro represented the winery.

Alessandro in the Palace Ruspoli in Rome

Alessandro said the Chianti Classico labels bear the Ruspoli and Berlingieri family coat of arms. The current owners of Lilliano reside in the historic Ruspoli Palace in the center of Rome.

There are 40 cultivated hectares dominated by Sangiovese alongside a small amount of other native and international varieties. He said they have 3 vineyards that produce the highest quality grapes: Le Piagge–Sangiovese, Casina Sopra Strada–Sangiovese and Colorino, and Vigna Catena—Merlot.

The aging cellar beneath the main villa is where the Chianti Classico Riserva ages in large oak barrels along with the Gran Selezione, a recent classification from 2010, which at Lilliano is aged in tonneaux. It is a wine made exclusively from a winery’s own grapes grown in its finest vineyards according to strict regulations. It is on the top of the Chianti Classico pyramid.

In a second cellar used for storage and winemaking, there are glazed concrete tanks and stainless steel containers. I asked Alessandro if they were returning to concrete as many producers are now doing and he said “no, we always had them.”

Chianti Classico 2020 DOCG made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Merlot. After the quality-selected clusters are destemmed and pressed, the must is fermented and macerated in stainless steel for 18-20 days at a controlled temperature with programmed punch downs and daily pumpovers. Maceration fermentation takes place in concrete and small stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 18-20 days depending on the vintage. The wine ages for about 12 to 14 months partly in large casks of French oak and partly in concrete. After maturation, the final blend is assembled, bottled and aged in glass for a minimum of 3 months. This is a wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, violets and a touch of cassis.

Chianti Classico Grand Selezione DOCG 2018 made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Merlot from grapes grown and selected from the Le Piagge and La Casina vineyards where the soil is calcareous clay. After a careful selection the grapes undergo a soft crushing and destemming. During fermentation the must is pumped over with plunging of the cap on a daily basis. Maceration is for 25 days depending on the vintage. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel tanks. The wine matures for 15 months in French oak barrels of 28 and 34HL and in tonneaux (500 liters). The wine is blended, bottled and ages for a minimum of 6 months. This is a full bodied wine with hints of red fruit, floral notes, cherry, plum and a touch of violets.

Anagallis Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT made from 50% Cabernet 40% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. After a careful selection in the vineyard the grapes undergo soft crushing and destalking before fermenting in 59 hl temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Maceration is for 25 days and malolactic fermentation is in steel. The wine is then put into barriques made of French oak from Allier and Nevers where the wine ages for 14 months. Blending takes place in a single container. The wine remains in the bottle for a minimum of 6 months before release. This is a intense wine with hints of red berry fruit, spice and a touch of smoke. The wine will age.

Tony also opened a Chardonnay from Paolo & Noemia d Amico winery, Calanchi Di Vaiano IGP Lazio made from 100% Chardonnay from vineyards overlooking Umbria at 450 meters. Fermentation is in stainless steel and the wine is aged in stainless steel for about 3 months. The wine has hints of citrus fruit and apricot with a touch of white pepper and a floral note. It was very refreshing in more ways than one to taste an unoaked Chardonnay

I spoke with Alessandro about Chianti Classico and the new UGA’s which divide the Chianti Classico region into different zones based on interior, etc, etc. For now the division is only for the Grand Selezione wines. They will no longer be allowed to use international grapes. Alessandro said he felt that if the other two Chianti Classic wines are included in the UGA’s then international grapes should not be allowed. I could not agree more.

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February 21, 2023 · 2:38 am

Chianti Classico UGA’s

Banville Wine Merchants organized a tasting recently featuring the relatively new Chianti Classico UGA (Additional Geographic Units) classifications. I was very happy to attend since Chianti Classico has always been one of my favorite wines and I am interested in the ways in which the producers are trying to improve these wines.

The speaker was the renowned Italian cartographer, Alessandro Masnaghetti. I had heard him speak on the same topic last spring along with Giovanni Manetti, President of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and owner of Fontodi. What follows is a composite of the two events.

The “old” Classification

Masnaghetti explained how the project developed and how the UGAs reflect defined expressions of the Chianti Classico territory. The UGA classification system differentiates and highlights the differences in climate and soil type of 11 villages of the Chianti Classico region.

The “new” classification system, approved in June 2021, for now applies only to the Gran Selezione (GS) category of wines which are the only ones allowed to add the specific UGA mention on the label. The 11 villages were identified based on specific criteria such as oenological recognizability, historical authenticity, renown, and significance in terms of volumes produced: San Casciano, Greve, Montefioralle, Lamole, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli, Castellina, San Donato in Poggio.

Masnaghetti said variations in soil composition, elevation exposure, and slope steepness can result in distinctive wines even within a small geographical boundary and Chianti Classico’s new UGA’s are a way for wine makers to express this.

In Barolo they passed a similar measure resulting in 181 new MGA’s (Mention Geografica Aggiuntive) in a region only 5 percent of Chianti Classico’s size.

Masnaghetti said that the phrase, “the territory makes the difference”, has always been a favorite motto. Chianti Classico is a truly unique territory covered two-thirds by woodland and only one-tenth is devoted to wine growing, with more than 50% dedicated to organic farming (52.5% of the area under vine). The wines with UGA names will be limited to Gran Selezione, one of the three types of Chianti Classico: the other two being annata (vintage) and riserva. Any Gran Selezione that will include a UGA on the label must contain a minimum of 90 percent Sangiovese (currently, that minimum is 80 percent); international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot will not be permitted in these Gran Selezione wines, as only indigenous varieties including Canaiolo, Colorino and Mammolo will be allowed as a maximum of 10 percent of the blend.

The introduction of the UGA’s represents an epochal turning point for the denomination, a change of perspective that leads producers and their wines to be no longer single actors, but expressions of a territory in relation to each other.

These changes will enhance the understanding of Chianti Classico wines and the terroir from which it is derived. I personally applaud the elimination of international grape varieties in Gran Selezione Chianti Classico and the exclusive use of indigenous grapes.

Masnaghetti presented 5 wines and discussed the difference between them to show that the new classification was justified.

Fattoria Cigliano di Sopra 2020 San Casciano made from 100% Sangiovese from the 0.3 hectare vineyard planted in 1982. The exposure is south-east and elevation is 250 meters. Vallone vineyard planted in 2004 with a western exposure at 260 meters. The soil composition is a mix of clay and sand rich in limestone and alberese rocks. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is headed-spur cordon. Grapes are picked by hand and de-stemmed gently, fermentation happens with wild yeasts naturally present on the berry skins in open top steel tanks. During the fermentation long pump overs are done twice a day in the first half and reduced in duration and frequency going towards the end. At the end of the fermentation and during the maceration, punch downs are done to extract gently phenolic and aromatic compounds from the grape skins. Fermentation and maceration process lasted for about 25 days. The free run juice and a small part of the press wine is transferred into large French oak barrels, 20% new, where the malolactic fermentation take place naturally. The aging lasts for 14 months, racking is done just when necessary to let the lees present at the bottom of the barrels continue to nourish the wine during the aging process. After aging the wine is racked gently taking care to remove all the lees and transferred for a brief period into steel tanks before bottling. No filtration or fining is done before bottling and the usage of sulphur during the whole process is kept to a strict minimum. The wine has hints of pomegranate, cherry, with a touch of black cherry and a note of violets. The winery is located in the northern most part of the Chianti Classico area. $35

I Fabbri “Lamole” 2020 Lamole made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso di Lamole with vineyards at 630 meters which are organic. Wild yeast is used. The wine is not filtered or fined. Aging is in cement tanks for 12 months and then for 3 months in bottle. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry and pomegranate.

Fattoria Le Masse 2020 San Donato in Poggio made from 100% Sangiovese. Manual harvest takes place in the middle of October. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts is between 35 and 45 days of maceration on the skins in small steel tanks without temperature control, manual stirring and without the use of pumps and sulfites. Aging is for one year in 2,25 hL and 5hl barrels where spontaneous malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine matures on the lees which are in suspension by batonnage for the first 5 months. The wine remains in bottle for a minimum of 8 months before release.

Tolaini “Mello” 2020 Gaile made from 100% Sangiovese single vineyard at 700 meters. Soil is Macigno del Chianti non- calcareous sandstone. There are 5,000 vines per hectare and they were planted in 2001. Manual harvest takes place the second half of October. The grapes are stemmed and the best are selected by an optical sorting. Whole berries are put in bronco-conic Austrian oak tanks and terracotta Amphorae. Fermentation is with natural yeasts and the musts are kept in contact with the skins for 45 days. Gentle punch downs are done in the first 10 days of skin contact. Aging is in 25HL Austrian oak casks for 18 months of which 6 months are on the lees. The wine remains in bottle for 8 months before release. This is a medium bodied wine with hints of raspberries, red cherry and violets.

Francesco Rosi the enologist of Tolaini spoke about the winery. I was very impressed by the wines

Tolaini Vallenuova 2020 Cantelnuovo Berardenga made from 95%Sanviovese and 5% Canaiolo. The soil is silty clay, rich in limestone with a high percentage of stones. There are 7,350 plants per hectare planted in 2000. Grapes are first selected during harvest in the vineyard and then by an optical sorter when they arrive at the winery; they are destemmed and the whole berries are immediately placed in stainless steel tanks. Fermentation is temperature controlled, and the must is kept in contact with the skins for 20 days. The wine matures for 10 months in a mix of Tuscan, Slavonian, and Austrian oak casks. The wine has hints of black cherry, tobacco, a touch of licorice and a note of spice.

We also received a copy of Masnaghetti’s book CHIANTI CLASSICO: The Atlas of the Vineyards and the UGA’s.

I do not know when all of this will go into effect for the Gran Selezione, or when and if it will include the other Chianti Classico wines.

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April 15, 2022 · 1:42 am

Tasting Chianti Classico

Before I left for Rome in March, I went to a Chianti Classico Consortium walk around tasting. There were more than 60 producers presenting their wines. I attended a seminar entitled Chianti Classico UGA “No wine is an Island.” It featured 11 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines representing the nine UGA villages (see link above). After this interesting and informative seminar I was able to taste some of the wines.

CHIANTI CLASSICO

Giulia Cecchi

Chianti Classico Villa Rosa Gran Selezione 2016 Cecchi made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is at 340 meters in Castellina in Chianti. The soil is calcareous clay characterized by heterogeneous profiles that combine “alberese” limestone with marl slate. There are 4,800 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon. Traditional temperature controlled vinification on the skins and fermentation and maceration lasts for 22 days. The wine ages for 15 months in tonneaux and 3 months in concrete and then a minimum of one year in bottle before release. The wine has floral hints, a touch of spice, and a delicate note of red fruit. I have been enjoying the wines from Cecchi for many years.

Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 Villa Cerna Cecchi made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino. The vineyards are at 280 meters, the soil is alkaline with stones. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon. Traditional temperature fermentation on the skins. Fermentation and maceration lasts for 15 days. The wine ages for 14 months in barriques and barrels of medium capacity and spends a minimum of 9 months in barrel before release. It is produced only in the best vintages. The wine has floral aromas with hints of red cherry, forest berries and a note of toasted almond.

Margherita Manetti

Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole 2018 Fontodi made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is at 620 meters and the soil is sandy. The wine has hints of cherry, plum, spice and a note of cranberries.

Alex Pagano – Enoclassica Selections

Chianti Classico Tagliafune Riserva Villa Montepaldi made from 80% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet, 5% Alicante and 5% Colorino. Harvest takes place from mid September to early October. Maturation takes place in wooden vats for at least 21 months. The wine has hints of dark berries, dried black cherries and a hint of spice. This renaissance property, once owned by Leonardo Medici, with its 300 hectares of vineyards and olive groves is also owned by the University of Florence and doubles as a field station for the Oenology department. It is run as a non-profit organization and therefore the wines are a good value. This was the first time I tasted this wine and I was very impressed with it.

Chianti Classico 2019 Castello La Leccia made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at 350 to 500 meters, soil is clay, silt sand, schistous clay and alberese. There are 4,500/ 5,200 vines per hectare and the vines are 9 to 15 years old. There is a south/southwest exposure and the training system is guyot. Harvest is manual in September/October and there is a selection in the vineyard. Destemmed grapes are gently crushed and transferred to steel thanks which are temperature controlled. There is a pre-fermentation cryomaceration for 24 hours followed by the alcoholic fermentation with short and frequent pumping over. Maceration lasts for 10 to 12 days. After racking, malolactic fermentation and maturation takes place in concrete tanks. The wine remains for 12 months in French and Austrian oak barrels of 2,000 to 2,500 liters. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, and violets.

Elena Ercole – Export Manager

Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. 2019 Castello Di Radda made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% other grapes. The vineyards are at 400 meters with a southeast and southwest exposure. The soil has a clay and limestone structure with a good presence of silica skeleton. Harvest is by hand and then sorted in the cellar. Fermentation is in stainless steel thermo-conditioned 50hl and 100hl vats, followed by maceration on the skins for two to three weeks. Malolactic fermentation is carried out in both stainless steel and wood. Part of the wine is aged in tonneaux and part in 20hl Slavonian oak barrels. The wine then remains in the bottle for at least 6 months before release. The wine has hints of violet, ripe plum, cherries and blackberries.

Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 made from 100% Sangiovese. The production area is Bibbiano and Castellina in Chianti from all the vineyards of the estate (25 hectares) from both the southwest and northeast slopes. The soil is calcareous-clay mixed with (limestone based) alberese rock. This wine represents the territorial characteristics of the estate since it is produced from Sangiovese grapes grown on both sides of the estate with the addition of a small amount of Colorino. Havesting of the Sangiovese began on September 20th and Colorino a few days later. The vinification takes place in cement vats and fermentation on the skins lasts for 18 days. There is a further stage of maturation while the wine is still in the cement vats, followed by a 3 months refining period in the bottle. This is a very well balanced wine with fruity hints of cherry and prune and a touch of violets.

Chianti Classico 2016 Grand Seclezione Volpaia Made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Mammal vines planted 1972-2004. Light soil consisting of sandstone except for the Castellino and Santa Maria vineyards, which have clay and Montanino which is sandstone and clay. Vineyards are on slopes 397 /570 meters and the exposure is southern. There are 2,564 to 5,683 wines/hectares and the training system is guyot. The wine is aged in barriques of French oak of first and second passage for 18 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, mint, a touch of licorice and a note of vanilla.

Monsanto Chianti Classico “Il Poggio” 2016 made from 95% Sangiovese and 3% Colorino and 2% Canaiolo. The training system is guyot and spurred cordon. The soil is sandstone content with limestone. There are 5,500 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon. Fermentation lasts for 15 days with prefermentation maceration lasting 3 days in temperature controlled truncated-cone vats with indigenous yeasts. Delestage and pumping over lasts for 22 days. The wine is aged in 38 HL French oak barrels for 18 months. The wine has hints of black cherry, cassis, coffee, tobacco and a note of violets.

I have a long history with Monsanto going back almost 40 years and the wonderful 1977 vintage.

Chianti Classico Badia a Colibuono 2011 90% Sangiovese 10% Colorino and 5% Ciliegiolo. The vineyards are at 250/330 meters and the soil in clay loam and limestone rock. The training system is guyot and the wines are 6 to 30 years old. There are 5,000 to 7,300 vines per hectare. Indigenous yeast from grapes with a starter. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. There is a light gelatin fining and a membrane filtration. The wine is aged in 2,000 to 2,500 liter French and Austrian oak casks for about 12 months. Then aged in bottle for about 3 months before release. The winery has been organic since 1995. The wine has hints strawberry and raspberry with good acidity, a note of violet and a touch of sunshine on the Tuscan pines. I have been drinking this Chianti Classico since the 1978 vintage.

Principe Corsini Villa Le Corti Don Tommaso 2016 Gran Selezione. Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot. The vineyard is at 270 to 350 meters and the soil is loamy stone content with limestone. Fermentation is in open, frustum cone-shaped stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature for 14 days and after 24 hours at 20C the grapes are inoculated with selected indigenous yeast. Skin contact is for 10 days and punch down and delestage is in stainless steel. The wine ages for 16 months mainly in tonneaux of 500 to 700 liters. The wine has hints of black cherry, cassis, coffee, tobacco and a note of vanilla.

Banfi Tuscany Chianti Classico Riserva 2017 made from Sangiovese Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. The soil is calcareous and well structured. The alcoholic fermentation takes place with a medium period of maceration. Aging for two years of which a minimum of 12 months is in Slavonian oak barrels. The wine is then aged in bottle for at least 6 months before release. This wine has hints of cherries, plums and iris with a note of leather.

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